Woodworker's guide to glue.pdf

Thanks!

You may want to look into this too.  I bought a bottle and it works well.  Has a quick tack time and works on other materials too.  Same consistency as the PVA wood glues.

 

Edited April 14, 20233 yr by HandyDan

Well, I had a revelation today.   I'm working on the 22 or so boxes, gluing them up.  I have made tons of boxes with mitered corners and hundreds of picture frames.  In the last few years, I have been using Titebond "Quick and Thick"  (nee No Run / No Drip).  My usual technique is to tape the corners, roll them up, clamp by some means, and cut keys for reinforcement and accents once the glue has dried.

 

On the current run, I'm trying to be a bit more efficient, so I'm cutting FF biscuits to strengthen and do some alignment.  I'm just using Titebond Original as I don't have enough of the Quick & Thick to do them all.  So it's taking a bit longer in the glue up to spread the glue well, get it in the biscuit slot, etc.   I was shocked to see just how much the glue was soaking into the end grain of the red oak and poplar while I was doing the adjoining joints.  I have read a few times that when gluing miters and end grain to put some glue on, let it soak for a couple of minutes, then add more and close the joint.  Now, I can understand why that's good advice.

4 hours ago, HandyDan said:

You may want to look into this too.  I bought a bottle and it works well.  Has a quick tack time and works on other materials too.  Same consistency as the PVA wood glues.

 

I will sometimes use Eclectic E6000 in a tube to glue non-wood and dissimilar materials.  Wonder if Weldbond is similar.