Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

The Patriot Woodworker

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Featured Replies

I started out posting under scroll saw, finished that part of this project, then posted some under carving then finally the final picture here at the finishing page. 20230221_153701.jpg.68e6caf81494255476eca0dea975195a.jpg20230221_153755.jpg.999ecc09ce2870d3607a2a4adab96b17.jpg

 

Sorry about the blurry image but I get that when ever I have a mirror in the picture.

 

I've been using the Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover for at least a year now and have turned out enough projects that I think I can give my opinion finally... Lacquer was getting so high I decided to us this and crossing my fingers and now I can say I do believe it is better for me to use over lacquer ....This is a satin finish I used on this carving. My suggestion is if someone is going to use lacquer or this product and wants a flat  matte, satin, semi gloss or gloss to do all the first coats with gloss then for the final coat use what you are after in looks. Reason lacquer uses a very fine silica sand mixed in the clear to obtain ones preference and if a person uses five of six coats of say a satin finish then he will end up with a foggy film and thats kinda like driving through Lubbock, Texas in a sand storm....

  This 2X goes on much heavier than lacquer so a person can get the spraying completed faster.  Also the fumes are way less and clear out  much faster..Dries to the touch in 20 minutes on  regular day....

  My first coat just like lacquer after it sets up, I use 0000X steel wool to rub it down and then the second coat if it still feels gritty.. and yes dummies I use the air compressor and a very fine bristle large paint brush to remove up should not be there!!!!! 

 This carving was sprayed on a turn table so I spray each piece from four different directions then I repeated this 3 different times....and still have part of that can left.

  I used satin but it is not real dry yet and some of the shine will go away when completely dry.

  The colors were applied with a 2 stage air brush, Paasche .

  • Author

I'm sorry Sherri, you spoke too late.

 

I didn't identify what the paint is called for the can never mentions it....unless it was in spanish.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

And after the satin dried the carving looks like this. I can't say this is exactly what I was expecting but was shooting for a good looking mess.20230301_102142.jpg.db814537ff71ade060fb76c7bbfc55bd.jpg

 I found the part of the nozzle for the air brush I had dropped on the floor a coupe months  ago and was down looking for something else and there was that little brass inside tip.. I thought I cleaned the floor more often than that???!!!

Looks good to me

That came out super Jess!!!

 

Is this the Rustoleum product you used? 

 

ScreenShot2023-03-05at7_31_44AM.png.0dfd0030fe2a7068cef29dee710b9358.png

 

Is this a paint, or something else?  The results certainly speak for themselves... but they don't tell me what they are :D

A beautiful piece Jess :TwoThumbsUp:

  • Author

Yes it is Cal.

I spray on a turn table so my one coat is sprayed from 4 different directions. Then repeat about two more times with about 20 minutes between coats, sand with this 3M very flexible rubbery type paper. Expensive but will last long long time for this is all I ever use this type of paper for smoothing the top coats..The only draw back is it will roll up then hard to keep it flat but does conform to curves very good...  I also use 0000X steel wool about as often.

 Spray all the first coats with gloss first then only apply the last coat of what ever sheen you are looking for. Most of my pieces have semi-gloss or a satin top coat for the final coat.

 To remove the dust between coats I use a three or four inch wide paint brush with very fine bristles and then the blow gun before I recoat.

  I never use any thing to prepare the wood for the clear coats or before any stain or color goes on.  I always thought that was a sales gimmick so I say any or all this preconditioning is not necessary if you use an air brush or a regular small paint gun for larger projects.

 

The metal primmer for steel is great but it seems to dry very slow on wood! And I don't think it is called the same thing.20230305_084005.jpg.01878b8536b7cbb5514c6820216519df.jpg

 

Smallpatch

0000 steel wool, I use Liberon brand, is my go to between coats. Liberon doesn't seem to "shed" like some others. Nevertheless, I blow it off with compressed air and follow up with a rare earth magnet. Occasionally, the magnet catches one or two little strands.

  • Author

The only thing Gene the steel wool only last a few times but the 3MM stuff last months.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.