Over the weekend I sacrificed a prized dumpster scrap of longleaf. Reduced the scrap into a few rods of 5/8" square or so, these to uniform short length, ending up with enough to fashion this cube. As the cube was sectioned like Frankenstein's brain for a tray bottom, I a'got to thinking :: Can I make enough  'parquet cubes' to glue into a workbench top?

 

I *thought* I've seen pictures of end-grain block workbench top construction. Does this exist or am I thinking of a butcher block top used as a workbench?

 

Is there a downside? These are fairly small squared "rods" in this block's construction. No size issue? Bottom line, the tighter the grain, the denser the top?

 

  

 

 

That is beautiful!

 

Some years ago, I had the opportunity to tour the aircraft carrier USS Yorktown museum in Charlestown SC. In the galley there was a well used, end grain butcher's block. Each of the individual blocks were dovetailed together in all directions. Wish I had take a picture. 

16 hours ago, lew said:

That is beautiful!

 

Some years ago, I had the opportunity to tour the aircraft carrier USS Yorktown museum in Charlestown SC. In the galley there was a well used, end grain butcher's block. Each of the individual blocks were dovetailed together in all directions. Wish I had take a picture. 

I remember seeing that too Lew. I wasn't as schooled in WW'ing then to realize what I was seeing beyond a well used butcher block. I was overwhelmed with the ship and her storied history. Perhaps being on the flight deck in late July in Charleston had melted my brain receptors. Like you wish I had taken a picture.

 

We do have a picture of us we purchased prior to walking out to board. Proceeds from that help to keep the museum funded. Hot and humid as it was, it was well worth the humbling experience to walk her decks. I was fascinated by the engine room; wife and daughter not so much.

13 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

it was well worth the humbling experience to walk her decks.

We had a squadron reunion in Charlestown. The tour guide was an old Navy vet who took us places "off the tour grid". It was an awesome tour. Being an airdale, I really got into the aircraft they had there on the hanger deck and flight deck.

Is this the chopping block you speak of. Yes I take pics of almost everything

Edited September 12, 20223 yr by Gerald

Thanks!

 

It sure looks like it, Gerald! When I saw it, there wasn't a shiny finish but I understand there was a complete restoration of the galley.

Yep sure looks like it. Remember that enormous band (meat) saw too. Kitchen galley was quite impressive. IIRC, there were several huge dough mixers too. Make a lot of donut dough at one time. Coffee urns that looked like small silos to wash them down.

Here are a few more

 

 

 

Think this is part of machine shop.

 

I found this Bofors impressive.

Back on topic   You probably don’t want to build a top out of end grain.  It is great for butcher blocks and the like but  when you build a butcher block you support it fully.  You would probably need to do the same with a bench-top.  Also I would be concerned with pounding actions that would gradually crush /mushroom the end grain, edge grain seems to handle this type of abuse a lot better.
Finally, flattening/re-flattening an end grain bench brings to mind a level of effort that I don’t personally want to contemplate. Planing that much end grain….<shudder> … and then the sanding… the humanity!!

 

1 minute ago, StaticLV2 said:

Planing that much end grain….<shudder> … and then the sanding… the humanity!!

Geez, I'd probably need tendon grafts!

 

Their lead mill man plus the owner had a talk about my end-grain idea. The kid was gracious in dissuading me, the owner relentless in telling the same thing ... in another way 

 

The daughter of the timber yard owner likes the block and wants a tray   I'll make two, thick substantial bases with rabbeted perimeter and slat sides, contrast assembly / sizes, let her choose.

 

Yes, I'll be scraping a fresh burr against the grain, after buffing to 12,000 grit. She'll definitely swoon after witnessing the pop. 

 

More wood ::

 

 

darn, I sure love grain close to the pith. This little block is 65 growth lines in under 2". I've got two 30"+ pieces from the same tree, the same pith. After gluing it back together - it split just outside the pith, very common - I'll likely square it a bit, save the slats, and then make 5/8" square sticks for more parquet blocks.

 

 

Big piece of timber; will want some thinking before I take it apart. Planning on saving some decent length of substantial dimension. 

 

 

Took the end off of the beam, chopped it up in the Modern Electrified Shop (basement).  Some of the usual issues; the beam did come from the abandoned tumble - but has plenty of promise.

 

 

Rubbish wood:  Works for me. The piece on the left has serious promise. I'll be shelving some rift-sawn 3x2 and 3x3. It's mostly longleaf. Also an ancient piece of poplar which was likely a floor joist.

 

 

 

Any idea if these are machine marks or hand-milling marks?

 

 

 

 

axe marks.

 

I hear the "newer" columns have the pith drilled out to keep the post from splitting. This does not. Here's a rougher one. Someone did some serious shaping to get the end of this to fit somewhere. I'm thinking a long curved framing chisel.

 

 

Here ya go. The longleaf post is on the right, from which I removed a few inches off the end to get a better look at the direction of the grain.

 

And the poplar post older than Moses on the left. I cut a foot off each end. It's seriously hard and with interesting grain; part of it is very tight-grained. It's not uncommon to see roughly-shaped logs as 1st floor joists in seemingly 'modern' homes in this area; often, with a house being built against many times over 250 years, the original structure is buried within. 

 

13 hours ago, Woodman said:

the poplar post older than Moses on the left. I cut a foot off each end.

Here's a 3x3 sample. Thinking hard about a 12" sliding chop saw. 

 

Often, bigger is better. But, oh Lord, check the price difference between 12" blades vs. A 10,". My 10" sliding miter/chop saw will cut 11.5" wide and about 8" thick. Enough for me.

I don't interchange my miter saw blades between that saw and the table saw, due to my preference for a negative rake on the miter saw blades but, if one weren't too particular about the configuration of his blades, they could be switched. Not so if one was a 12" blade.

50 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

Often, bigger is better. But, oh Lord, check the price difference between 12" blades vs. A 10,". My 10" sliding miter/chop saw will cut 11.5" wide and about 8" thick. Enough for me.

I don't interchange my miter saw blades between that saw and the table saw, due to my preference for a negative rake on the miter saw blades but, if one weren't too particular about the configuration of his blades, they could be switched. Not so if one was a 12" blade.

I agree with Gene's points. Perhaps a 12" would be beneficial in a production, commercial shop, but IMHO, not worth the extra cost for (a)saw (b) blades versus use cycles in average WW'er environment.

1 hour ago, Gene Howe said:

cut 11.5" wide and about 8" thick

I’ll require 5.5” or so in a single cut. Can’t be flipping the beam because it is never flat. 
 

I’m guessing that the $279 HF 12” sliding miter saw will have flex. And am wondering how true to 90° it would maintain through the cut. 
 

A fixed cut is fine/ preferred. After that, single miter, like my c. 1988 Delta 10” Motorized Miter Saw. I’d be avoiding the compound miter version.