Toilet in the basement is old, old, same as the house and it's over 110.

Tank has a small crack that's leaking water. Going to replace it but it's got 4 hold down bolts into the floor. I don't know if that's because of the size or what.

I've never seen a replacement one like it.

Edited July 14, 20224 yr by Harry Brink

You may have to replace the floor flange.  That shouldn't be that big of an issue especially if the old one is held in place by a lead and oakum joint.  Your biggest problem might be finding a plumber who know what a lead and oakum joint is.

I'm sure in this town full of "old" houses there is someone. I'll check it out.

Hope all the work flushes out OK Harry.

Replaced one like that at MIL's house a few years ago. Used newer two bolt mount toilet. The front screw/bolts can be removed or cut off. The rear bolts are usually centered on the flange. Four bolt mounts are still available in the commercial/institutional (Schools/Hospitals etc.) line at two to three times the price. 

Pittsburgh Potty

3 hours ago, kmealy said:

Pittsburgh Potty

A long way from Pittsburgh to Montana!

The house next door has that type.

Outside entrance, dirt floor and when you go down a couple of steps everything is in full view.

Ours is a "finished" basement.

Main thing I was wondering about was the 4 bolts.

20 hours ago, Larry Buskirk said:

The rear bolts are usually centered on the flange.

If the flange is cracked or decayed, a few careful blows with hammer to cold chisel will crack it and you can wiggle it past the lead.  On old pipes with plenty of room, a 4x4 C.I. flange is best - plenty of room for plenty of oakum and lead.

 

If it is okay, the old brass bolts thru the flange should be removable and you can put new ones on. I'll always use nuts and washers to bolt the bolts to the flange before a new wax ring and dropping the hopper back on.

 

If the floor is uneven, the bowl footprint can rest in a hump of stiff cement. Tighten down the bowl but wait a little bit before trimming the cement flush (a great use for a cedar shim, slicing the cement close to the bowl). In lieu of cement, shimming with a coin then forcing grout into the seam is also great. Thinset, if you have it, the ultimate.

 

5 hours ago, Woodman said:

If the flange is cracked or decayed, a few careful blows with hammer to cold chisel will crack it and you can wiggle it past the lead.  On old pipes with plenty of room, a 4x4 C.I. flange is best - plenty of room for plenty of oakum and lead.

 

There are also clamp on repair flanges, and PVC replacement flanges that use a press in rubber bushing to replace the oakum/lead.

It's not used very much so I bought a small can of Flex Seal. Cleaned the crack and coated it with the stuff.

It's been 2 weeks now and no moisture leak at all. We'll see how long it lasts.

 

I must admit to having always been skeptical of these "seen on tv" products.  I may have to change up some of my thinking.

 

Two years ago I had a concrete bird bath with a small crack.  It would hold water for some few hours but always leaked dry each day.  Two years ago I got a spray can of flex seal at Big Blue, it was pricey but cheaper than a new bird bath.  I figured three good heavy coats; that nearly finished the can so I likely did 3 heavy and one light coat to finish the can.  Two years later it still holds water.

YMMV, but I hope you have similar success

Flex-Seal to the rescue! 

Used Flex-Tape on our plastic washing machine tub about 3 or 4 years ago, still holding! 

Much cheaper than replacing the tub. 

Does flex seal really works? always had  a bad experience

The Flex-Seal is still holding without a drop and it's been almost 3 months.