For the second time this year, I've had a pneumatic tool, first a narrow crown stapler and now a pin nailer in the shop for repairs.  Both times, "repair parts not available."  One was Campbell-Hausfeld and the other a Senco (both of which are headquartered in town but probably offshored manufacturing).  Neither had very extensive duty since I've owned them.  I've replaced both with Braun from HF.   If they go bad in a few years, I'm only out $25 each.

 

For a while, I knew the technical and marketing folks at C-H.   Once they told me that (I think due to getting the annual squeeze from Wal*mart), they had to offshore to meet the price points.   Sad.

Same with Bostitch. I've had to scrap several older tools. I replaced one with a "Grip-Rite" so far so good.

Oil will help make pneumatic tools last much longer plus a water trap in the line within a few feet to the tools are helpful depending on the type of compressor..

A drop or two of light machine oil in the air inlet prior to each use is a good policy. I placed the moisture trap ahead of the line pressure gauge. my compressor is an 80 gal. CH with a drain at the bottom.   It and, the in line moisture trap gets drained after every use. 

Even in our dry climate, the tank collects a surprising amount of moisture.

Edited September 24, 20205 yr by Gene Howe

My friend used to work for Stanley-Bostitch. Every time he'd see my tools, his first comment was- "Did you oil them!?"

Gene in my way of thinking you could drain a large tank every hour but there is no way of removing all the moisture inside of an 80 gal tank which my tank is also that size.

 You can fill up a big pot in the house with water and turn it upside down and back over and you still got to dry it with a dish towel to remove all the water!!!!

  I use to sell automatic water drains for compressors but I never put one on any of my tanks... I open the valve once a month or once a year sometimes!!.  Both compressors I have were made in the fifties and they still don't leak from rust!! The 120 gallon is just sitting with no electricity going to it anymore.. I'm just too lazy to put a for sale sign on it!

  Just a thought but I think oil type compressors usually have a little blow by around the rings and there is always some oil mixed it the bottom of the tanks..no not actually dissolved in to the water but is always there so maybe this type of tank under the oil type compressor is actually keeping the tank from rusting so fast???? How much, I don't think I care to set up an actual test on the types of compressors for I probably don't have 50 or 60 years left to complete test like that so I guess for me it is to keep doing what I do and you all have already come to some kind of thoughts on the subject so hell might have to change somes minds so whats for lunch??

 

Edited September 24, 20205 yr by Smallpatch

And right now I am working on a different type of decay. I made a taller base for each column this morning and will use quarter round to cover the gaps.

 

This is 21 years worth of wear and tear with no repair for that length of time. Wife said I want the house to look good if you die!!!!

  /And the person who invented paper wall board and water base outdoor floor paint should have his ba--- cut off. But now I knew some of what I was getting in to so yep it was all my fault. 

 

I put oil base out door type porch and floor paint on two decks and I ran out of paint and was fixin to go get more when brother in law said hey I got a full 5 gallons can of water base out door floor paint and you can have it free....but I don't like water base anything for outdoors....but they have made it better now.... oh sure!!!! the other two decks the oil base never flaked off anywhere . It final wore off from foot traffic. All three decks are about 3 foot off the ground.

   She did paint all the outside walls some times ago but I was busy and didn't help on my part of the repairs...

Edited September 24, 20205 yr by Smallpatch
adding more thoughts

This one deck in the picture is the only deck I used water base out door floor paint...It was a big mistake. And it only took about a year for the paint to start peeling of in places and that was about the last time I took brother in laws advise for I realized just because he lived in California was not a good reason I should listen to him anymore!!!!

To get back to the original topic;

   Did the repair department make any mention of the tools being dry? If so two things:

1. There are inline oilers that have a small reservoir of oil that you keep filled. The oiler puts a drop of oil in the line every so often (most are adjustable). The oiler is attached directly to the tool (just before the quick connect).

2. If not using the oiler, then a few drops of oil at the end of the day (this allows the oil to penetrate the trigger mechanism, if you lube the tool and then immediately start using the tool, the oil will be pushed past the trigger mechanism and not lube it)( found this out about 2 weeks ago).

 

You are right about the oiler and in auto repair garages I use to sell them but we , are more or less wood working people on this site and air hoses are mostly used for painting so in my way of thinking an oiler should not be used.. And maybe a guy can only afford one air hose. Two separate things for two separate uses. A good place for these to be used are roofers and house builders.

  There are automatic water traps that gives a small sound on a regular basis when it clicks on and ejects a small amount of water. This is a good idea for guys that sprays their paints often!!!

The inline oiler I'm referring to is a small devise meant to be installed on the tool itself. You use one per tool, they're not very expensive.

Here's mine:

Sorry I forgot about the small jobers screwed in to the back of a tool. Mechanics have a hard time getting the impacts in and around the motors of cars now adays so they were never bought by anyone in the garages I sold tools to...those guys were always screaming for smaller tools for me to sell.

Edited September 26, 20205 yr by Smallpatch

On 9/24/2020 at 9:53 PM, Wichman3 said:

 

2. If not using the oiler, then a few drops of oil at the end of the day (this allows the oil to penetrate the trigger mechanism, if you lube the tool and then immediately start using the tool, the oil will be pushed past the trigger mechanism and not lube it)( found this out about 2 weeks ago).

 

Thanks for that bit of info. Hadn't considered that. Sure makes good sense.

16 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

Thanks for that bit of info. Hadn't considered that. Sure makes good sense.

Think of a pneumatic tool like it was a pistol you carry everyday.  It requires maintenance so when you need it everything works.

Thee cheap brand tools. Reason I always stuck with older Senco brand. Have one Bostic h and when it stopped iI threw it to the side. 

Edited September 26, 20205 yr by BillyJack

31 minutes ago, BillyJack said:

Thee cheap brand tools. Reason I always stuck with older Senco brand. Have one Bostic h and when it stopped iI threw it to the side. 

If used everyday for work I can understand staying away from less than pro versions.  But I have yet to toss a pneumatic tool I use at home.  They just don't get the use like the ones at work.  Most can be easily repaired and parts are usually not a problem.  Now production work, that would be whole different ball game.  My work air tool drawer is full of impacts, die grinders, air ratchets etc etc,  I keep two of each.  Yes it is expensive but if one goes down I am still productive.  

I never shopped for anything less than Senco. I worked with them in the shops for years before I had a shop. Easily picked up in pawn shops in those days for $50-$75. Last one I bought was a Senclamp for $35. I've had trouble buying a newer back gun. But no need now.

 

Considering the cost of one Festool Domino. It would pay for all my nail and staple guns. 

Edited September 27, 20205 yr by BillyJack