Have a Francken Plane....90% Sargent #3416 Jack plane....has a Bailey iron, chipbreaker is a Bailey off of a trans. plane....rear handle? 

Rear handle didn't fit quite right...swapped that out.   Iron needed to be flattened on the back, a new straight, single 25 degree bevel ground and honed to 2000grit.   Chipbreaker?  placed on the bench, it would rock...flipped over, a ball pean hammer to "Un-rock" it...about 5 good "taps" right where the high spot was...then polished the edge.   Slot in the iron is a tad too narrow for the lateral lever....

I checked the body...sole was indeed..flat...Cleaned away a lot of crud build up in the cavities ...oily paint brush seemed to work.

 

Took a bit to adjust things...first trip down some Pine..

Had it set a tad too deep...tried a pine 1x, laid flat...first few passes...

Was still a tad thick...kept adjusting...noticed the grain on the board...

Works much better, when I go WITH the grain.  Might keep this one around, for a while...

What stone(s) do you use to sharpen your blades? I have 3 planes that I need to tune and sharpen, but have limited experience with hand planes.

I think Steven uses stones. I use the scary sharp method.

 

This one I found is kinda long but covers angles, micro bevels and more.

 

SCARY SHARP

I use a "mix" of things....sometimes an iron or chisel is too out of whack....the grinder will get things back in order...but not sharp...so

Disc is a worn 180 grit.   Plywood part is set to 90 degrees to the disc ( blades slide a bit better..)and there is a cup of water handy....blades are held at ~ 25 degrees to the spinning disc,,,until my fingers get too warm...then a dunk, and back at it again.   back of either the chisels or the plane irons is also flattened here...then over to the bench..

This is what I started with.   And, the chipbreaker is also worked over....until it mates up with the flat back of the iron...without any gaps between them.   So..

I freehand.  I start with the coarse Carborundum stone,with a bit of 3in1 oil.    Then to the 600 grit India stone.

Then a couple papers...a 1000grit wet-n-dry and then a 2000 grit one...laid right on top of the stone..

Getting there....then either an old leather belt for a strop...

Or..use a buffer...

To polish the bevels....and the edge of the chipbreaker.   Check to make sure no gaps between the two..

Then assemble these two.   I try to keep the chip breaker about 1mm(or less) back from the edge.   It sits on the non-beveled face of the iron. Set up in a plane for a test  drive...

Advance the depth until it just starts to cut....check that the shaving is more or less centered...and have some fun...

kind of hard to stop...Same with the chisels...

Before...

And...after....(have a bare patch on my left forearm from the one in the middle)

I keep things rather simple....a flat back, and a single 25 degree bevel...no "ruler tricks"  or micro whatevers...then back to work.   The #62's iron was stropped on the cloth buffer wheels on the bevel...cloth wheels have a bit of green compound rubbed into them...then a quick buff on each wheel....bevel is up...lightly held.

 

A David Weaver over on Wood Central uses the wheel trick....calls it a Unicorn Profile.   even has a few videos out, about it...

On 9/3/2020 at 11:40 PM, Gerald said:

I think Steven uses stones. I use the scary sharp method.

 

This one I found is kinda long but covers angles, micro bevels and more.

 

SCARY SHARP

Thank you sir, I’ll check it out.

On 9/4/2020 at 2:34 AM, steven newman said:

I use a "mix" of things....sometimes an iron or chisel is too out of whack....the grinder will get things back in order...but not sharp...so

Disc is a worn 180 grit.   Plywood part is set to 90 degrees to the disc ( blades slide a bit better..)and there is a cup of water handy....blades are held at ~ 25 degrees to the spinning disc,,,until my fingers get too warm...then a dunk, and back at it again.   back of either the chisels or the plane irons is also flattened here...then over to the bench..

This is what I started with.   And, the chipbreaker is also worked over....until it mates up with the flat back of the iron...without any gaps between them.   So..

I freehand.  I start with the coarse Carborundum stone,with a bit of 3in1 oil.    Then to the 600 grit India stone.

Then a couple papers...a 1000grit wet-n-dry and then a 2000 grit one...laid right on top of the stone..

Getting there....then either an old leather belt for a strop...

Or..use a buffer...

To polish the bevels....and the edge of the chipbreaker.   Check to make sure no gaps between the two..

Then assemble these two.   I try to keep the chip breaker about 1mm(or less) back from the edge.   It sits on the non-beveled face of the iron. Set up in a plane for a test  drive...

Advance the depth until it just starts to cut....check that the shaving is more or less centered...and have some fun...

kind of hard to stop...Same with the chisels...

Before...

And...after....(have a bare patch on my left forearm from the one in the middle)

I keep things rather simple....a flat back, and a single 25 degree bevel...no "ruler tricks"  or micro whatevers...then back to work.   The #62's iron was stropped on the cloth buffer wheels on the bevel...cloth wheels have a bit of green compound rubbed into them...then a quick buff on each wheel....bevel is up...lightly held.

 

A David Weaver over on Wood Central uses the wheel trick....calls it a Unicorn Profile.   even has a few videos out, about it...

Wow that seems like a lot. I was thinking like 2 diamond stones and a strop. 😂 Guess I need to step it up a notch or two.

11 hours ago, PatriotWoodturning said:

Wow that seems like a lot. I was thinking like 2 diamond stones and a strop. 😂 Guess I need to step it up a notch or two.

Two stones and strop are fine for most sharpening, unless you got a really jacked up edge. I have two go to stones and I have never stropped my plane irons. I do however strop my carving knives.

8 minutes ago, John Morris said:

Two stones and strop are fine for most sharpening, unless you got a really jacked up edge. I have two go to stones and I have never stropped my plane irons. I do however strop my carving knives.

What stones are your "go to" stones?

22 minutes ago, PatriotWoodturning said:

What stones are your "go to" stones?

Just for general maintenance I use a 4000 and 8000, for quick touch ups others use a strop, I suppose my touch up is over the 8000. I have a 220/1000 combo stone for getting those nasty things fixed, but if you are careful with your tools, you'll not use them, very rarely. Or you will use the 220/1000 for shaping your iron, cambering the edge or changing the bevel.

My advise is not to get too hung up in sharpening, I mean, you need your irons sharp, but really, it's just like anything, folks can get a little too guru into it, and next thing you know you got a plethora of sharpening jigs and stones and a full blown sharpening station etc etc, not knocking those woodworkers, just saying stay simple starting out, you may like the minimalist approach in sharpening, I know I do. And, my greatest advice is, learn to free hand sharpen, it's quick, and it's enjoyable.

I've been meaning to get a free hand sharpening topic tutorial up here, but just have not done it yet, for now though if you go to our beloved YouTube and do a search for Freehand Sharpening Plane Irons, you'll find some great information.

Here's one I found for ya, James Wright is not boring to watch.

 

 

Always pick up something in watching sharpening. Everyone has a different take. Yes I can sharpen freehand but do go back to guides if it gets a little wonky. Now what I picked up was the way he removes the iron.