Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

The Patriot Woodworker

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.
Supporting Our Service Members
We proudly stand with all United States service members in Operation Epic Fury and those deployed around the world. Your sacrifice, courage, and dedication are deeply respected and never forgotten.

Trimming a door question

Featured Replies

As dumb as this sounds, I always struggle putting casing around a door frame. I can get perfect 45 miters, that's not the problem. But getting the verticals to line up correctly with the top horizontal piece seems to mystify me. Maybe it's a matter of me not knowing where do you start. Do you put the horizontal piece on first? In the past I've mostly just started on one side, then the top, then the other side. So how do the pros do it? I've got 2 doors to trim out in the shop and though I'd take some time to learn the proper way....even though I'm not worried about how it looks.

Thanks for the topic Fred.  I have three windows to put new trim on.  It will be good to see how the pros do it.  In the past I have done the sides first and then cut the top to fit.

Edited by Cal

  • Popular Post

At the risk of saying what you already know, here's how the old timers taught me...

 

Mark a 1/4" reveal in several spots with a combination square.  I usually start on the left side and work my way around.  Sometimes I make the miter cut a bit long and trim the square end as needed to make it work.  On a concrete floor, you might want to leave a gap so the wood doesn't touch.  A spot of yellow glue at the miter, and also nail through the edge at the miter.  4 penny nails into the jamb and 6 or 8 into the jacks and header.

 

Of course, if the jambs aren't square there will be gaps.

 

With windows, mark the length of the sill by setting a scrap piece of trim in place and rolling it 90 at each side.  Or just picture frame it.

Hope there's something here you can use.

Jim

 

 

The last door that I hung had its own casing.  So, it was ensuring that the opening at the top and bottom were the same distance apart, that it was actually vertical, off the floor sufficiently to open and close with only the sweep touching.  I had done a bedroom door that was horrible to fit.  The casing was fine, I thought.  I checked the used door and perfectly square, but it would not fit the opening.  Measured.  Unbelievable.  The middle of the door was the narrow point.  The hinge side was straight, but the latch side was concave just above the latch.  So, I put the door on the hinges, pulled it to the frame with the knob cut out, used a pencil to trace the casing onto the door.  I then used a router to make the door fit.  Of course, since it was the latch side, that side had to be angled so it would clear the casing.  It has worked perfectly for the past 16 years and no one would ever believe all the patching and adjusting to make it fit.  It looks normal, but I can point out all the flaws.  Thankfully, no one else sees all the deviations from a straight and plumb door.  

 

Yes, I would do the hinge side first, ensuring that it is plumb, install the latch side and get it as plumb as possible, then insert the top.  I think you can do this if you just do the steps.  :D

  • Popular Post

I never cared for the 45° corners.  I prefer this look and find it easier to do.

 

image.png.6e111c401bebe49caf46d8184ea410a7.png

  • Popular Post

DSC_0011.JPG.2ebc5ccdd4d96e5dd4c358852a6341b3.JPG

One more option.

John

1 hour ago, HARO50 said:

DSC_0011.JPG.2ebc5ccdd4d96e5dd4c358852a6341b3.JPG

One more option.

John

I have used this method in my kitchen:TwoThumbsUp:

I agree with the 90 degree joint.  I have seen 45 degree mitres and they often don't look good.  I have also seen it done on exterior parts of the windows and doors allowing rain water access to the stiles.  

10 hours ago, Gunny said:

I have used this method in my kitchen:TwoThumbsUp:

Every interior door in our house was done that way. 

10 hours ago, Gunny said:

I have used this method in my kitchen

I have been commissioned to recreate some of those corners on the lathe over the years.  Somehow they go missing.

  • Popular Post
2 hours ago, kmealy said:

Here's a tutorial.  Brief overview: top first.  Don't measure, mark.

 

https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/how-to-trim-a-door/

Don't measure? Heresy, I say! :lol:

  • Popular Post
51 minutes ago, Gene Howe said:

Don't measure? Heresy, I say! :lol:

Well, you don't say, "This piece needs to be 40 13/16" a little light," you say, "Here's the mark to cut to."

  • Author
  • Popular Post

Chris Schwartz is quoted as saying "measuring is the enemy of accuracy". :Laughing:

Another take on the non-miter craftsman look...

 

image.png.45e8c4865e3770eda0d8437ec1518b03.png

  • Popular Post

And yet another variation on the craftsman theme.

 

IMG_0926.jpg.09e13a8e4708a35ddea905ab51e0e6cb.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.