This is the thing I changed to sit on something but realized there is no where for it to sit.

 

 

 

It started out as a Russian barometer.. After changing my mind in the middle of the stream a few times I ended up with needing a movement with a 3/4" long stem which this is the only size I don't have except the movements with chimes and pendulums and the width back there ain't that wide so I have to order a regular  do nothing buy time movement.

  I used the air brush for just enough color but not gaudy and mostly on the flowers...I just now noticed a nail head showing in the middle of that flower in the middle of the bottom? It will be hard for the bees to get anything out of that flower!

  I'm still learning for I can see lots of areas I should have worked more on so that will be remembered on the next project maybe so. The three way type of carving maybe someday what ever that is so I will have to study up.

  Just a thought but through the years they have been reducing the hole sizes for some movements to fit in so I would suggest not drilling a sized hole until you have the movement in your hands,,,, use to be all 3/8" size holes.

  Also you aught to stick to one brand of movement for not all hands will fit on all movements and its good to keep a few sets of hands for widths of dials you choose to build. 

  Another tip maybe... Once you got everything finished and the movement running I like to put a few drops of glue in the corners on the movement so it will stay without moving around especially the set and forget and the atomic movements that depend on other sources for its correct time. Aleene's glue seems to work better here.

  Doing this first makes shaping the pieces much easier especially on my fingers.

 

 I did cut most of these pieces in to small ones before I started with the Dremel types of tools.

I really like the subtle colors.

28 minutes ago, lew said:

I really like the subtle colors.

Me too! 

And, thanks for the tips, Jesse. 

You point out the flaws but, I don't ever see them. looks good from where I sit.

Your work is always beautiful, and imaginative. Kudos to you.

What method did you use to cut out the pieces ?

Paul

What Artie said 

Your work is always beautiful, and imaginative. Kudos to you.

You are right about movements, which brand do you go with? 

Paul, I first put a backer board on with a few screws holding the front and back pieces of wood together....Install clear packing tape over the top side then spray stickum over the tape and install the pattern. I then drill very small holes through the front of the pattern in areas for after I cut all the pieces where lots of wood will be left after I do the carving to secure each piece...I then turn the piece over and using the small hole as a guide I drill from the bottom up with a pilot screw hole bit into areas of each individual piece. Don't worry if some piece sare too small for a screw for there should be enough screws and glue to make it all sturdy.... Your pilot drill bit should be just a hair small than the screw I use sheet metal screws for the threads are the same size from top to bottom. Also a drill bit held in front of a screw a person should only see a small amount of thread on each side of the bit....

 

  Now you can take the screws out and remove the backer board. Now scroll saw apart all the pieces to be carved

 

 

 

 

 

Once you are finished carving and finishing all the pieces all that is left to do is apply lots of glue to all the contact surfaces and install the screws.. watch when you put the screw all the way in for the piece might turn a little so make sure everything is lined up before the glue sits. If I still have a large gap after the glue has dried I use a long slim glue nozzle and put a little glue in the gaps.

  

In the past I used 1/8" as backer boards for some of my projects and later after the glued dried real good there would be a warping in what I built. Now I use BB in 1/2" size and notice no warping.

   

Ron, I try to buy most of my battery movements from Klockit and I do keep a few sets of hands in stock and they are the straight wide models which makes it easier to see the hands across the room...and they come black. I order all the hands longer than they will end up for I do want to leave them as long as possible for each width of dial I'll be using to cover as much of the dial as possible. Some model clocks movements comes with gold or like color hands but I do a Rustoleum black on those.  I like to print out a clock dial off of the internet and then scroll saw it to make it more of a personalized thing. With Rapid Resizer I make the dial as large as the clocks will take. Klockit will state which hands goes with what model movements.   The pendulum, the pendulum chime model and the movement only model will take the same hands then just the length and style is all there is left for you to choose.... and a pair of sissors to cut them when ready to install... and tell everyone to just turn the small button on the back to set the time and not reach and mess with the hands. And don't forget you have to choose the hands for they don't just throw in anything. They are free but you do have to go back and choose what sets you want

with each movement.

  I also mentioned a couple of days ago after you are satisfied then put a large drop of glue at each corner of all the movements for some of them should not be turned either direction once the hands are on....If the hands are moved after that first installing, the set and forget and the atomic movement with not show the right time....The aleene's glue is thicker and will stay about where where you put it.... no need to put glue all around the plastic movement just a drop on each corner is good enough.

I use # 5 Flying Dutchman blades and if you slope each side of each saw cut line it will be very hard to see any gaps for the gap is deep down in those slopes.