Yep, it won't saw without blades.!!

   If you have a new 788 then it would be good to take the table out from the saw, don't loose the little O ring and using 400 grit or close wet or dry sand paper and some WD-40 with a flat power sander, shine the top a bit....Then from time to time a good shinning with Johnson's paste wax will keep it slicker than a baby's bottom. Your top will probably have big swooping machining marks in the top but you don't need to remove all the lines, just smooth it.  New saw table tops use to have a sharp edge so remove that.. I apply a little heavy oil to the areas just about the bearings above and below the table.. The saw dust will collect it but I don't think oily saw dust will hurt anything except the wood under it. I also tie a rag around that area until the oil stops dripping on the wood for it causes weird designs if doing any staining later.

 

This is what my area usually look like. My saw is never bolted to the table.

  I have had guys tell me the red switch will get collect saw dust and cause it not to work so you might blow that area out once in a while.. My switches have never failed but I do know to blow things off and out sometimes before waiting for something not to work! And that is a different story around the saw and on the floor.

Great tip, Patch.  Hadn't thought about the 400 grit sandpaper idea.  I know we all get scratches, glue drops, ect on our tables and I have just my little sanding block to shine it up.  Heading down to my shop after browsing and using your great tip.  

 

Thanks

Fred I had to do something for when I bought my 788 new the top felt like sandpaper and nothing would slide over it...don't forget to use the WD 40 with the wet or dry sand paper. I need to redo my table saw for I use that area as my work table and it looks and feels terrible...