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Making your own splitter/riving knife

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I bought a used Jet Supersaw for the theater group to replace the one messed up in the fire.   The seller could not find the blade guard ("It's around here someplace.") and the construction manager is worried that it does not have, nor can we get, just a splitter or riving knife.  Would it make sense to fabricate one from sheet metal of thickness to match the blade kerf?  Or does anyone know of a source.

 

He thinks it won't be safe without one (this is from the guy who freehand cuts 4x8 sheets of plywood).

 

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Here is an article on a DIY version. RIVING knife

 

Then here is another called MJ Splitter

 

This is something called SHARK Guard . Don't know all these models but this is one I wanted for years and they did not have one for my saw.

With a riving knife and pawls, it should be safe enough with a careful operator.  

14 minutes ago, FlGatorwood said:

with a careful operator. 

yeah well that's were I am sure they have an issue, key word here is careful.:JawDrop:

On a Shopsmith, a blade guard and riving knife is a total PITA. But, on a "normal" table saw..especially, with multiple users and experience levels, they'd be a plus. 

Gerald has the answer for an after market solution. The MJ Splitter and Shark Guard would be my choice. 

Gene, since  you have so much trouble with a Shopsmith, I can't figure out why you even have one.  :Laughing:

 

I have a 500 and it is a challenge.  I have two alignment sticks.  While shifting the riving knife and guard into place, I place one stick on one side of the blade extended out to touch the riving knife as it slides into place.  When I think I have it in place, I use the other stick on the other side to ensure that the wood will clear the knife as it exits the blade.  Then I tighten her down.  If I had a 510 or 520, it is simply no problem to align.  But, I spend all of about 1 minute to align my riving knife to the blade.  I've been doing this for about 10 years or more with my setup.  Maybe, I should do a Youtube video.  :D

3 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

"normal table saw"

:ChinScratch:... normal :huh:... normal...:WonderScratch:...

I had a Shark Gaurd on my Unisaw and really liked the way it worked, but I had a Bies snap in clamp to hold it. That made removal and installation a piece of cake. So I'm not sure how they work on other saws but they are highly regarded, very expensive, long lead time and likely one of the better solutions for that saw (it looks like they make one for that saw, I checked). The Shark excels at dust collection so if you have a DC they really help with that as well, and that was actually one of the leading reasons I bought the one I had.

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What! :WonderScratch:..:blink:

 

1817066319_1160Tilty.PNG.562cf3620f59853e53bc7d4ddd3dff4f.PNG

 

But isn't this normal? :WonderScratch:565653ef73546_IDontKnow.gif.01caecda7e615c644de7a112928e6d71.gif

 

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Gator, I don't have any complaints with my 500s. The blade and table on the one used for ripping doesn't move often. That saw has a Jointech saw train and router table mounted. The fence system is great. Lots of ways to attach hold downs and feather boards. I've never had a kickback. The other 500 is a shorty and powers the bandsaw and belt sander. It's also the one used for the drill press, dado stack, disk sander and, some cross cuts. Most miter cuts and cross cuts are done on the SCMS though. 

I wouldn't ever suggest that anyone disregard or discard the safety devices provided with their equipment. In my case, however, I find the guard and knife clumsy and, often redundant in my way of working. 

50 minutes ago, Larry Buskirk said:

What! :WonderScratch:..:blink:

 

1817066319_1160Tilty.PNG.562cf3620f59853e53bc7d4ddd3dff4f.PNG

 

But isn't this normal? :WonderScratch:565653ef73546_IDontKnow.gif.01caecda7e615c644de7a112928e6d71.gif

 

If your are doing a 25 to 30 degree cut, yes.  The newer ones are much easier than that.  The new ones, the riving knife is inserted into a holder that is alignment with the blade.  You insert the knife and blade guard, tighten a screw and you're done.  Can't get much easier.  Like John's, Gene's and mine, we have to do some finageling.  I'll have to get a picture.  

59 minutes ago, FlGatorwood said:

If your are doing a 25 to 30 degree cut, yes.  The newer ones are much easier than that.  The new ones, the riving knife is inserted into a holder that is alignment with the blade.  You insert the knife and blade guard, tighten a screw and you're done.  Can't get much easier.  Like John's, Gene's and mine, we have to do some finageling.  I'll have to get a picture.  

It'll go to 45°, I was referring to the table tilting. :CoveringEyes:

Absolutely. That gets a bit tricky for me.  Especially, if the board is wider than what you can set the fence for.  My table is about 8 inches from blade to edge.  If I want a board ripped wider than that, it is challenging.  So, I have learned to take a PITA step and make several cuts and then join to make the size I desire.  Yep, it will do 45 easily and the riving knife stays the same.  The throat plate may have to be changed to allow clearance for the blade.  

 

 

With my limited experience, take this with a grain of salt, but I found the Shark Guard significantly reduced the sawdust compared to the SS guard. 

If you are a one man operation and find the guard gets in the way or the cuts you make don't require it, remove it.  But don't throw away.  BUT if you let someone else  use your stuff, or have a helper, DON'T DO IT!

3 hours ago, Artie said:

take this with a grain of salt

I'll raise your grain of salt with one peppercorn.:JawDrop:

4 hours ago, Artie said:

With my limited experience, take this with a grain of salt, but I found the Shark Guard significantly reduced the sawdust compared to the SS guard. 

I have yet to use one.  I do all my work outside since I have 4 trees in the garage.  No room to work.  I use the lower guard only for the safety.  

12 hours ago, Artie said:

With my limited experience, take this with a grain of salt, but I found the Shark Guard significantly reduced the sawdust compared to the SS guard. 

No grain of salt needed, Artie. You are spot on. The SS guard (the small one for the shop vac) just isn't up to collecting dust. I sold mine to a fellow that wanted to mount it on a Rigid saw. In it's place I put on my old Excalibur from the previous saw, and I have a Shark basket for it. SS now sells the Excalibur as their own product, the difference being the paint on it. But a,ost anything would beat the stock SS guard for collecting dust.

9 hours ago, FlGatorwood said:

I do all my work outside since I have 4 trees in the garage.

I do most all my work outside, I don't have a garage. :( 

Better be careful there Gator, it was 4 trees that took down our garage.:wacko:

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