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kmealy

TGIF: Wipe on Urethane Tuesday, july 9, 2019

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A video on applying a wipe-on finish (Arm-r-seal).    Contrary to implications, it is not an oil-varnish blend but a thinned varnish.  I used some in the last couple of weeks to put on some water-worn kitchen cabinet doors at the church.   I was not sure what the finish was (suspected lacquer but not sure that someone else had not done something in the last 45 years).   I sanded down the finish, applied a couple of coats of shellac as a barrier coat, applied two coats of Arm-r-seal, applied a coat of gel stain as a glaze to restore some of the lost color, and two more coats of Arm-r-seal.   Sanded with P400 grit between each coat (except after glaze).  Should be good for another 45 years.  Wipe on finishes work very well on things like chairs and beds where there are a lot of joints and spindles.

 

 

Edited by kmealy

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On 7/8/2019 at 7:02 PM, kmealy said:

Wipe on finishes work very well on things like chairs and beds where there are a lot of joints and spindles. 

Amen! Chairs! I could not imagine using a varnish brushed on for chairs. What a nerve racking experience.

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On 7/10/2019 at 10:29 AM, John Morris said:

Amen! Chairs! I could not imagine using a varnish brushed on for chairs. What a nerve racking experience.

Sprays work even better.  It takes me about 2 minutes to spray a chair and that includes time to flip it over and rotate it around.  I did some Morris chairs with Waterlox brushed on and I think it took me several hours to get the two of them done.

Edited by kmealy

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On 7/10/2019 at 10:35 AM, Michael Thuman said:

Does this stuff melt into the other finish or does it require sanding between coats?

 

No, it's a thinned polyurethane.  You can probably do a couple of coats without sanding but you should sand between coats.

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I use wipe-on poly on my turnings as one of my go to finishes.  My items are much smaller than a chair or chest of drawers but I brush it on until the wood is saturated and let it dry.  I brush on subsequent coats and leave them to dry until i get the shine I want.  Between coats I rub the items down with pieces of brown paper bags to knock the dust nibs down and I haven't had any failures of coats separating.  That's what works for me.

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All just as an update the sanding between coats I do with 400 paper and have learned that you need to not put on a full coat with water based poly unlike oil based.  You need to put on a very thin coat and you can stand there and watch it dry.  

If you go thicker it does tend to run or bubble but the bubbles (again unlike oil based) do not flow out so brush very softly. Then do not touch it.  So far I am not liking water based poly very much as all.  On another thread I did use grain filler over water based poly then let it harden up over night and bushed on a thin coat or water poly and it can out great.  

 

Keith I know you sang the praises of pre cat laq but it is very costly compare to poly and does not stand up as well to chemicals used for cleaning as poly but becuase it melts into the previous layer I am very much considering using it.

Please let me know what the cavates of pre cat laq is and can it be padded, brushed or sprayed easily?  Sorry for stealing this thread may be Keith creat a TGIF on pre cat laq use and cautions.

 

 

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On 7/12/2019 at 3:45 PM, Michael Thuman said:

 

 

Please let me know what the cavates of pre cat laq is and can it be padded, brushed or sprayed easily? 

 

cavates ?

Most lacquers dry too fast to be anything but sprayed.   Though there are a couple of brushing versions (Deft and Watco are the ones I know).   This means doing in a spray booth with good ventilation or an open air environment.

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On 7/13/2019 at 5:37 PM, kmealy said:

cavates ?

Most lacquers dry too fast to be anything but sprayed.   Though there are a couple of brushing versions (Deft and Watco are the ones I know).   This means doing in a spray booth with good ventilation or an open air environment.

Good to know time for a spray booth.  How well does pre-cat lacquer stand up to chemicals vs. Poly?

 

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20 hours ago, Michael Thuman said:

Good to know time for a spray booth.  How well does pre-cat lacquer stand up to chemicals vs. Poly?

 

I know Sherwin Williams sells a pre-cat lacquer which is KCMA certified.  

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On 7/23/2019 at 9:01 AM, Danl said:

I know Sherwin Williams sells a pre-cat lacquer which is KCMA certified.  

Thanks I will check them out once I find a store.  Would lacquer benefit from HVLP or is it fine to use convention spay gun?

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19 hours ago, Michael Thuman said:

Thanks I will check them out once I find a store.  Would lacquer benefit from HVLP or is it fine to use convention spay gun?

Sorry Mike, I do not have the answer for your spray system question.   Danl

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OK, I'll say it.

Go HF! 

 

I have a no name hvlp all in one unit that's been used once maybe 6-8 years ago. Worked fine. If anyone wants it, let me know. You pay shipping.

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I have several of the HF guns that I use for Lacquer, shellac and spray stains.   Work great for that.    In fact, I originally bought one from Jeff Jewitt and then another from Rockler -- they don't seem to be any better.  I keep the expensive HVLP unit for water-based finishes.  Swapping finishes around can make problems if you don't get the gun meticulously clean.

And Fred is right, they have a higher transfer efficiency with HVLP units.

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OK hvlp it will be and I am OCD about the cleanleness of my guns.

Are you HF guns conventional or HVLP?  Same for the JJ and Rockler?

 

For the spray booth during the summer I can use an explosion proof motor in a fan for all finishes but in Winter (which by the way is my main building season) how do I create an internal spray booth.

My shop is 52' x 40' basement with furnance and hot water tank so I need to be very good at capturing all flamable overspray.

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10 minutes ago, Michael Thuman said:

OK hvlp it will be and I am OCD about the cleanleness of my guns.

Are you HF guns conventional or HVLP?  Same for the JJ and Rockler?

 

For the spray booth during the summer I can use an explosion proof motor in a fan for all finishes but in Winter (which by the way is my main building season) how do I create an internal spray booth.

My shop is 52' x 40' basement with furnance and hot water tank so I need to be very good at capturing all flamable overspray.

HF sells (2) different purple 20 oz guns.  I prefer the one which comes with the regulator.  The guns' spec sheet reflect different CFMs (I was just on the HF wed site and it reflects just the opposite of what I was remembering).  I to have a basement shop and I do all of my spraying in the garage.  It is to hot and the humidity is to high now to do any spraying.  There is some over spray, so do not forget to put down tarps on your floor.  Danl

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13 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

Here's a down and dirty spray booth.

I have something similar but added convenience to it.  My sides are able to roll up and down via a power window motor, 12 volts.  To set up, press switch and roll down each side.  When done, press switch it rolls back up and out of the way.  Give me a few days to make new pics.  Lost that project picture set when last laptop died...  OOps.

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