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kmealy

TGIF: Wipe on Urethane Tuesday, july 9, 2019

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A video on applying a wipe-on finish (Arm-r-seal).    Contrary to implications, it is not an oil-varnish blend but a thinned varnish.  I used some in the last couple of weeks to put on some water-worn kitchen cabinet doors at the church.   I was not sure what the finish was (suspected lacquer but not sure that someone else had not done something in the last 45 years).   I sanded down the finish, applied a couple of coats of shellac as a barrier coat, applied two coats of Arm-r-seal, applied a coat of gel stain as a glaze to restore some of the lost color, and two more coats of Arm-r-seal.   Sanded with P400 grit between each coat (except after glaze).  Should be good for another 45 years.  Wipe on finishes work very well on things like chairs and beds where there are a lot of joints and spindles.

 

 

Edited by kmealy

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On 7/8/2019 at 7:02 PM, kmealy said:

Wipe on finishes work very well on things like chairs and beds where there are a lot of joints and spindles. 

Amen! Chairs! I could not imagine using a varnish brushed on for chairs. What a nerve racking experience.

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On 7/10/2019 at 10:29 AM, John Morris said:

Amen! Chairs! I could not imagine using a varnish brushed on for chairs. What a nerve racking experience.

Sprays work even better.  It takes me about 2 minutes to spray a chair and that includes time to flip it over and rotate it around.  I did some Morris chairs with Waterlox brushed on and I think it took me several hours to get the two of them done.

Edited by kmealy

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On 7/10/2019 at 10:35 AM, Michael Thuman said:

Does this stuff melt into the other finish or does it require sanding between coats?

 

No, it's a thinned polyurethane.  You can probably do a couple of coats without sanding but you should sand between coats.

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I use wipe-on poly on my turnings as one of my go to finishes.  My items are much smaller than a chair or chest of drawers but I brush it on until the wood is saturated and let it dry.  I brush on subsequent coats and leave them to dry until i get the shine I want.  Between coats I rub the items down with pieces of brown paper bags to knock the dust nibs down and I haven't had any failures of coats separating.  That's what works for me.

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All just as an update the sanding between coats I do with 400 paper and have learned that you need to not put on a full coat with water based poly unlike oil based.  You need to put on a very thin coat and you can stand there and watch it dry.  

If you go thicker it does tend to run or bubble but the bubbles (again unlike oil based) do not flow out so brush very softly. Then do not touch it.  So far I am not liking water based poly very much as all.  On another thread I did use grain filler over water based poly then let it harden up over night and bushed on a thin coat or water poly and it can out great.  

 

Keith I know you sang the praises of pre cat laq but it is very costly compare to poly and does not stand up as well to chemicals used for cleaning as poly but becuase it melts into the previous layer I am very much considering using it.

Please let me know what the cavates of pre cat laq is and can it be padded, brushed or sprayed easily?  Sorry for stealing this thread may be Keith creat a TGIF on pre cat laq use and cautions.

 

 

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On 7/12/2019 at 3:45 PM, Michael Thuman said:

 

 

Please let me know what the cavates of pre cat laq is and can it be padded, brushed or sprayed easily? 

 

cavates ?

Most lacquers dry too fast to be anything but sprayed.   Though there are a couple of brushing versions (Deft and Watco are the ones I know).   This means doing in a spray booth with good ventilation or an open air environment.

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