For years have been snagging clothes and apron on the pin on Grizzly BS that keeps the table flat. Have made two new pins and today got an idea to never have that problem again. I made a new pin from all thread and then got a piece of oak from scrap bin and drilled a hole and threaded on .

 

 

 

Think you are on to something Gerald, mind if I borrow this idea??

That's genius Gerald, I had the same Grizz bandsaw and kept snagging shirts on that bolt. Why didn't I think of that!

Cool!!!

Great idea Gerald.

My Delta has a tapered pin.  Maybe just modify the original pin.

14 minutes ago, HandyDan said:

My Delta has a tapered pin.  Maybe just modify the original pin.

My JET is same way, probably just mill down a new one that has threads on one side that go into the block of wood.  Thinking a nice scrap of purpleheart or maybe some IPE would do nicely.

Well now I know what that pin is for.

Always thought that it was for either keeping the slit open to facilitate changing the blade or for just keeping the slit open, period.

 

thks for the wake up call

 

but that begs the question--- how would you adjust the flatness of the table with the pin?

48 minutes ago, smitty10101 said:

how would you adjust the flatness of the table with the pin?

 

The table is split to allow blade changes.  The pin isn't an adjustment it is used to hold the table in place and keep it from warping.

4 hours ago, HandyDan said:

 

The table is split to allow blade changes.  The pin isn't an adjustment it is used to hold the table in place and keep it from warping.

Dan hit it and in just the few days the split was not level but putting the pin in brought it back. I will probably lose a million in royalties but this is open end programing.

Why not just put a headless bolt with a slot in it and screw it in to where nothing is sticking out past the end of the table. I have three different size band saws and nothing is sticking out past the table on mine.

6 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

Why not just put a headless bolt with a slot in it and screw it in to where nothing is sticking out past the end of the table. I have three different size band saws and nothing is sticking out past the table on mine.

That's a great idea too Jess, a little modification on a bolt would do it.

Let me ask, do your bolts still have the threads on them, and if so, do they tend to grab as you slide them in and out? Thanks.

37 minutes ago, John Morris said:

Let me ask, do your bolts still have the threads on them, and if so, do they tend to grab as you slide them in and out?

I also am curious.  Two ways I can think to do this.  One thread the hole and screw it in, or take the bolt and using a drill, or a metal lath if one has one handy smooth down the threads.  

 

Myself I am going with Gerald's idea, smoothing out the threads then thread the other side into what will be the handle.  My thoughts on it are I don't need a screwdriver, okay I am lazy, and I can twist the wood handle easily with my bad wrist if needed. 

I tried what Jess is talking about and unless you spend the extra time to polish out the bolt it is not a smooth fit so will need something to hold onto to remove it, unless you want to get the pliers out every time.

My saw just uses a tapered pin with a hex end so you can grab it with plyers to get it out when you change the blade.  Then you bang it in with a soft blow hammer.

The third time* I run afoul of something I paint it red.

 

*fourth on a slow day

I just thread the hole and screwed in a set screw.

On 5/9/2019 at 6:54 AM, PeteM said:

The third time* I run afoul of something I paint it red.

 

*fourth on a slow day

And, sometimes it comes red from the factory.

My old 1930's Delta 785 10" doesn't use an alignment pin. 

The old 785's used a stamped steel table that they simply used a countersunk machine bolt, and nut through the table.