I just picked but a Delta model 10 Contractor's table saw. I got a real good deal on it, but it has a cracked cast iron top where one of the fence mounting holes are. I was going to flip the saw, but the more i look into fixing it, the more I think that I should just part it out, unless I can find another top for a really reasonable price, which could take a long time.

braze the crack..

take it to a welding shop.. it can be repaired...

It sounds like it's just cracked around the mounting hole (?). What about not using that one, and drilling another one close by?

If you are not wanting to repair it, ebay could be your friend.  Here is a top that is listed now:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rockwell-Delta-Model-10-Table-Saw-Top/253844210620?hash=item3b1a4b43bc:g:BqEAAOSwri5bio48:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!31008!US!-1

 

OTOH, other parts for this saw are currently listed on ebay and you might be further ahead to part it out.  I did that a few years ago with a DeWalt mitre saw and I was really surprised at the parts that sold - and the money they brought.

22 hours ago, CharlieL said:

I just picked but a Delta model 10 Contractor's table saw. I got a real good deal on it, but it has a cracked cast iron top where one of the fence mounting holes are.

Got pictures of the crack and hole positioning you can post Charlie? Very possible a good welding shop can repair the crack by filling the hole, then re-drill & tap.

I wouldn't scrap/part it out yet. I'm a visual person...I just need to see it before offering better or more specific suggestions.

Fred your idea I think is a good one. Cal that looks good, but I'm not going to keep the saw, so I don't want to put anymore time or money into it then necessary. Dave if I had it welded or brazed I think that I'd still do as Fred suggested. I'm not so sure that a weld or a braze would hold up to the stress of a fence mounted to it. I think that I'm going to sell the saw cheaply and let the next guy worry about it all, or do as Cal also suggested and part it out. The motor alone I would think is worth atleast $125. Then there are fence parts, hand wheels, internal parts, the cabinet, stamped steel wings, and the stand.

Edited September 25, 20187 yr by CharlieL

2 hours ago, CharlieL said:

Dave if I had it welded or brazed I think that I'd still do as Fred suggested. I'm not so sure that a weld or a braze would hold up to the stress of a fence mounted to it.

Thanks for the picture Charlie. A good weld/ machine/ fab shop should be able to repair that. Personally I'd prefer to have it welded vs brazed. If the crack is ground out and the hole filled as part of the repair it should be as strong as before. A plate strap could be welded on the back, along the bottom or both for reinforcement if needed. The hole could be re-drilled in the current location or as Fred suggested, in a new location. Probably the biggest challenge will be insuring the corner is pulled back down & into place eliminating that corner being higher than the rest of the table. 

 

My take on the cause of failure the saw was either knocked over or dropped landing on the fence rail &/or table extension wing at some point. Very unlikely any normal usage of the fence caused that fracture nor should future use of the fence cause the failure to recur. My $.02 including 3 cents tax.

If you can, drill a hole thru the end of the crack to check any further cracking.

The other day I cleaned the rusted cast iron top, today I had some time to clean up the saw's interior a little, starting with removing rust inside the cabinet where there is exposed bare metal such as the tie bars, then removed some caulking from where there was a dust hood. After that I then removed a galvanized pipe welded to the stand for a place to store the miter gauge. It's starting to look a little better for resale.

If you decide to have it welded make sure to use nickel welding rod.

A braze in that location would hold quite well.

When I was still in the farm equipment business, the best rod I found for cast and gray iron was from a company called Palco based out of Ohio. It was a great all position rod and excellent in pass-on-pass needs. For clean cast like this saw top that hasn't been subjected to thermal heat stresses, pre-heat would not be needed IMO.

 

Preheating is the preferred method of welding cast iron,but this means heating the whole cast up to a temp of 500 -1200 degrees F. You can weld it using Nickle rod without preheat, although it is recommended that the cast be up to 100 degrees before welding. Weld in short 1" spurts and peen the welds as you progress. Nickle welding rod is quite expensive and requires a welder with skills using this type of material. Weld using DC reverse polarity current.

Gave the saw all new wiring this morning, sold the saw this afternoon.