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I need to replace the hand rail/balustrade on my porch. Wife wants turned spindles. I've never turned Bald Cypress. How does it work? Chosen for its weathering ability.

Will probably take about 40 turnings. The plan it to make all parts interlocking, no fasteners.

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Thanks, looks very nice. What diameter are the spindles?

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Love the porch Cal...classic deep South look that just exudes "come on up, have a sweet tea and sit for a spell.

Of course a warm slice of pecan pie along with the sweat tea would make it just that much better.:P

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On 7/8/2018 at 5:26 AM, Cal said:

and made the handrail for our front porch

 

that's some 1st rate Cal...

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On 7/8/2018 at 5:26 AM, Cal said:

and made the handrail for our front porch.

that is some serious 1st rate you have there Cal...

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14 hours ago, Larry Schweitzer said:

Thanks, looks very nice. What diameter are the spindles?

Just measured the blank at 1 7/8 square.

 

I probably tuned half a dozen or so from scrap lumber before deciding on this shape.  This was a simple, easily replicated shape that our son & I knocked out over the course of a couple weeks after work & school.

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That shape is very close to what my wife has picked out. 

I'll be ordering the lumber from one of our suppliers.

I probably have a bit of an advantage over you guys for making. 

I run a woodworking shop. I'll get the lumber in the rough and run it through our straight line rip saw to make molder blanks. Then through the molder to S4S the spindles and profile the rails. Cut to length on an up cut saw. Will shape one end of spindles with a dovetail in both directions that will slide into the matching slot in the bottom of the handrail. The spacer blocks will slide into that same dovetail slot and be cut to fit against the other side of the spindle dovetail. All parts captive and not relying on any mechanical fasteners. Top of hand rail to have slight bevel for drainage. Bottom of hand rail to have a bead on each side to form a drip stop.

The bottom rail is a bit trickier and I haven't decided if I can maintain good enough accuracy for a stub tenon to be wedged. I can machine the holes dead on, CNC router, and I can use a milling machine tool, used for mold making, to cut a tapered hole, bigger at the bottom, so the 2 wedges can spread the tenon to a tight fit. Will use water proof glue on the wedges to keep them in place with changes in moisture.

Some trial runs will be needed before committing to this scheme.

I have a hydraulic copy lathe to make the spindles. It has tenoning knives. I have a shaper that I will set up with a molder head so I can get two sides of the dovetail cut at the same time, insuring they are all the same.  I have a profile grinder to make the knives to any angle I want. They are template ground to dead on the same. 

I hope mine comes out looking as good as yours.

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