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Michael Thuman

Tub Replaced By Shower

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Bathroom redo. Tub converted to a shower.  Internet has one person do it the hard but probably cheaper way.  Then more expensive and easier but is it better.

1. He rips everything out creates a 3" curb add blocks to the studs so the 3" above floor is all around.  Then installs shims to taper the concete from the back and side and front to the drain.  Then add a poly layer 6" up the wall and over the step.  He then on top of that puts in more shims and concrete.  Then tiles on top of that.  

 

2. I can purchase tile ready poly inserts for $$$ but how does one install them to make sure no water is trapped or leaking?

 

Which option would you go with.

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Mike, are you committed to tiles?

I did this a couple years ago, but went with some type of man made marble or something.  Shower pan and walls, real happy with the finished product.

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4 hours ago, Michael Thuman said:

Which option would you go with.

after many redos... for many...

go w/ solid panels and base... nothing like it...

http://www.swanstone.com/index.php?cat=4&attr=77

1582660726_NewBathroomShower2.JPG.0cb67f26ed6323f08486ed7a352f90c0.JPG

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OK here are the udpates and questions.  

1. I have an osb sub floor.  

2. I want to use a membrane (orange) over the floor and under the tile.

     Can thinset (TS) modified be safely used to bond the membrane to the OSB?

     Do I need to seal the OSB before the TS and if so with what to get modified thin set to stick?

3. The shower walls and floor will be tile so I will put the membrane under the shower pan to help water proof.

     Is this recommended?

4. The walls in the shower will be hardi backer with seams taped as there are only studs now. I plan to run the organge membrane up the walls about 6" (in the shower) and then seal the corners.  The install plastic sheeting over the studs then hardibacker over that then tile.

      Is this recommemded?

5. Should I before I start install blocking between the joists under the floor to further stiffen the floor.  If so what spacing should I use.  The blocking will also help to later install drywall on the basement ceilling.

 

 

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1. I have an osb sub floor.  

make sure it has zero flex...

 

2. I want to use a membrane (orange) over the floor and under the tile.

     Can thinset (TS) modified be safely used to bond the membrane to the OSB?

Cut the membrane to size...

Apply a layer of thin-set adhesive fortified with latex to the subfloor...

Roll the membrane out, and position it in place...

Apply a bed of thin-set without latex additive, and set the tile in it....

 

plan-a.jpg.81e6a33400b086efb05521d150c1c59d.jpg

 

if this is Ditra you are using/installing follow their game plan to the letter...

off to YT ya go...

use their videos and not what somebody else did..

 

     Do I need to seal the OSB before the TS and if so with what to get modified thin set to stick?

yes...

 

3. The shower walls and floor will be tile so I will put the membrane under the shower pan to help water proof.

    Is this recommended?

what are you doing/using for a pan???

gotta have more details..

 

4. The walls in the shower will be hardi backer with seams taped as there are only studs now.

tape the seams w/ mesh tape and thinset or MR/WP joint compound...

 

I plan to run the orange membrane up the walls about 6" (in the shower) and then seal the corners. 

go direct install to the Hardibacker and skip the membrane or you'll have an elevation change you didn't plan for....

the pan should have a drip lip or water let built into it...

you'll be using tile setting adhesive and not thinset...

just the same, something isn't forming a clear picture in the my head..

gotta have more details...

 

The install plastic sheeting over the studs then hardibacker over that then tile.

Is this recommended?

by all means..

use 6 mil...

4~6'' seam over laps..

tape all seams/holes... (heavy wt. packaging tape is made to order)...

flash the corners/protrusions...

you want bullet proof forever taping.. use window/door flashing tape...

nothing stopping you from cutting it to width to suit your happiness...

 

5. Should I before I start install blocking between the joists under the floor to further stiffen the floor. 

go w/ floor joists instead.. blocking won't gain you much..

add joists longer and centered to what you have under the bathroom..

sister any joists you have that have cracks or just look flaky..

the plumbers chopped the snot out of or have large loose knots...

basically you are going to have a short joist w/ blocking on either end adapted to call...

if you can rests the ends of the joists on a sill.. all the more gooder...

PL400 or PL Premium is your friend here... leave the LN at the store...

quality deck screws may be a big plus too..

if you have TJI's.. plate the TJI's and still add additional joists...

 

If so what spacing should I use.  The blocking will also help to later install drywall on the basement ceiling.

there will be places that need them like around plumbing going up through the floor..

Edited by Stick486

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tried to edit and it wouldn't fly...

add this to the reply..

 

3. The shower walls and floor will be tile so I will put the membrane under the shower pan to help water proof.

    Is this recommended?

what are you doing/using for a pan???

EPDM or a ready made glass/composite/FRP/cultured/etc pan???

gotta have more details..

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Stick thanks for all the details and advice, you are truely superior to all the stuff I found on the internet.

The membrane is Ditra or Ditra XL I have not made up my mind wihch one to use.

Shower pan will be a 30" w x 60" long composite pan that will attach to the wall studs.  My plan is to have the membrane under the pan in case the pan cracks.   The shower drain will be modified so that the membrane if it has water will drain.  Then higher up the shower pan also drains into the same pipe.  Or is this over kill?

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57 minutes ago, Michael Thuman said:

Stick thanks for all the details and advice, you are truely superior to all the stuff I found on the internet.

The membrane is Ditra or Ditra XL I have not made up my mind wihch one to use.

Shower pan will be a 30" w x 60" long composite pan that will attach to the wall studs.  My plan is to have the membrane under the pan in case the pan cracks.   The shower drain will be modified so that the membrane if it has water will drain.  Then higher up the shower pan also drains into the same pipe.  Or is this over kill?

That is interesting, how do you do that, put the shower pan in a sheetmetal pan, with a larger drain fitting?

Herb

Edited by Dadio

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1 hour ago, Michael Thuman said:

My plan is to have the membrane under the pan in case the pan cracks. 

no... paint the floor w/ RedGard or the like waterproofing/crack prevention membrane

1 hour ago, Michael Thuman said:

The shower drain will be modified so that the membrane if it has water will drain. 

as in an overflow set up...

good luck w/ that...

and you just may be compromising the seal on the drain...

1 hour ago, Michael Thuman said:

Then higher up the shower pan also drains into the same pipe.  Or is this over kill?

yup...

the size of the overflow would be huge...

'but wait!!!

you'll be in the shower.. turn the water off..

 

1 hour ago, Michael Thuman said:

The membrane is Ditra or Ditra XL I have not made up my mind which one to use. 

consider Red Guard...

 

1 hour ago, Michael Thuman said:

Shower pan will be a 30" w x 60" long composite pan that will attach to the wall studs.

UTILIZE THE DRIP FLANGE AS INTENDED!!!!

don't over think it or try to fix something that isn't broke...

which pan did you select...

this is important...

 

1 hour ago, Michael Thuman said:

Stick thanks for all the details and advice, you are truly superior to all the stuff I found on the internet. 

ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

thanks for the vote...

'but wait!!!

you did get this off of the internet....

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Stick thanks for the PM I will try to call you tonight.  The red guard cannot go over OSB. I can install it in the shower pan and durarock shower enclosure before tiling.  But under the shower pan will be the OSB or shold I install 1/2" durarock over the entire floor first then red guard then shower pan and walls the red guard then tile?

 

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3 minutes ago, Michael Thuman said:

The red guard cannot go over OSB. I can install it in the shower pan and durarock shower enclosure before tiling.  But under the shower pan will be the OSB or should I install 1/2" durarock over the entire floor first then red guard then shower pan and walls the red guard then tile?

 

WOW!!!!

I do not use Durarock for anything.. EVER.. BTDT/VOE...

Hardibacker is far superior many times over...

install, tape the seams, lay tile..

the screws for it at home desperate are junk.. don't bother w/ them....

 

as far as ''sealing'' under the pan goes unless you put the pan inside of pan (which is very impracticable) w/ it's own dedicated drain you are wasting time, energy and money... the pan can go up the walls but will be open in the front...

just paint the OSB w/ a waterproofing membrane... Red guard works in this application because you are not laying tile over it..

However, Hardibacker AND tile under the pan is a practical way to go..

 

34 minutes ago, Michael Thuman said:

under the shower pan will be the OSB or should I install 1/2" durarock over the entire floor first

no matter what you do to the floor it's still a flat surface and flooding will just flow to the edges and cascade down the walls... 

for what you are trying to achieve you'd have to put this bathroom inside of a one piece pan w/ a floor drain...

 

I still would like to know which pan you plan on using..

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18 hours ago, Stick486 said:

just paint the OSB w/ a waterproofing membrane... Red guard works in this application because you are not laying tile over it..

you are trying to defend/protect the OSB from water damage/destruction...

rust proofing under coat will work...

water proof glue..

acrylic oil base paint..

there's lots of choices...

ice and water shield...

Edited by Stick486

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Just finished a tub to shower project. I used a premade shower base coupled with wall panels----not the cheapest but this process really saves time and ends up bullet proof---no leaks-ever. turns out the plumbing is nearly as labor intensive as the rest of the project. Works really well for us old folks.

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