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How I secured the dial housing and dial

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I have two layers of wood here surrounding the dial and hands..this part can't be glued down for the hands need access..         Using double sided tape I will attempt to hold the two pieces of wood ridgid on to the body so I can drill holes all the way into the body of the clock. I will thread the hole in the body of the clock with an 8-32 tap so I will drill the hole through the three pieces of wood with a # 29 drill bit, .136 and this is the size hole for an 8-32 tap. The two top pieces of wood, the housing for the glass and the 1/4" board I have for the dial will both get a larger bit so the 8-32 bolt will slide through both top pieces and the threads in the body will accept the bolt.. The larger hole for the bolts to slide through I use a # 19 which is .166IMG_0108.JPG.22895df0d7ab648c17ec5e2d0f436e8c.JPG

 I made sure the bolt will go in and out of the tapped threads, 8-32..

 I take the little flowers and drill a # 29 , .136 hole in each flower then run the tap, 8-32 back and forth so the threads are good and clean. I then take the four bolts and grind the heads kinda square and flat then using a very small bit on the dremel, grind out an area for the head of the bolt to fit into . the larger hole will be a # 19 or .166IMG_0109.JPG.79a8765fcb8f83fad20c773a341bc5ad.JPG

 

I grind the area around the bolt large enough to hold epoxy around the bolt then screw the bolt all the way into the wood flower,  then make a holder to go in the vise for the epoxy to set up for the 4 bolts, mix epoxy and place enough over each bolt and let dry.IMG_0112.JPG.8d4875a2c0ec72260f272c3328f81fa2.JPG

 

These coke cans are great for mixing up small amounts of epoxy.. The curved  bottom of the cans keeps me from trying to scrape up and use the part next to the can.. Important!

 

That finishes the dial housing area and tomorrow I will cut a hole large enough to house the clock movement..

 

Almost ready to think about colors for the clock. Its got to be different than all the ones I have in the house at this time...

 

Its a good idea when mixing and pouring epoxy not to scrape the sides and use that also in your pour.. That part next to the mixing bowl has not been mixed as good as the part going around and around so it can effect the drying quality so always mix just a little extra so you don't have to use it all..

 

Maple is a good wood when needing to tap some threads and I only use 8-32 bolts and nuts for I can remember the drill sizes for the threads and the larger hole needed for the bolt to slide through.  My next bolt and nut size goes up to 5/16.  I never use anything between those sizes.

Edited by Smallpatch

Well thought out, Jess! Should be good.

John

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Something else I might mention, I use number bits and not fractional sizes on wood for tapping holes.  Years ago I kept getting cracks and busted pieces when trying to tap holes then I got a set of number bits and it stopped the headaches for having to repair things to many times.. And don't run the tap in all the way the first time. Go about a third of the distance , back out and blow it clean then go another third farther and so on...

Also on softer wood, taps don't do so good.....

  And there happens to be a hardware store in Abilene has sells drill bits one at a time all the way down to a # 80 and I use mostly #'s in the 50 to 60's for most of the inside cuts on the scroll saw when I don't want the hole to show after the cut is made.. Bible Hardware, not affiliated with any church.

Clever idea using the flowers as knobs to retain the clock...

Keep the pictures coming Patch...enjoying the progression a great deal.

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I have every brand of epoxy in my shop, expensive and cheaper.. On the five minute epoxy.IMG_0113.JPG.189f1a027291fa6dcf56a4a6ecc960bc.JPG

 

I end up using this. Its 50-50 mix and is the 5 minute mix to set up....3 oz each tube and is about 9 bucks. on sale cheaper.. This is about 3 years old and if I put the caps back on after use, its still good... Do make sure the caps are returned on the right tube each time or else you screwed up....Harbor Freight brand but all these years I still can't tell the difference unless I'm using bar top epoxy. And after it has set up , no one else can tell the difference either.

GO HARBOR FREIGHT!!!!

 

Herb

Lotta good info there, Jesse. Thanks for that. 

How were those leaves burned? Painstaking work. They look good. 

A little bit of everything going on here. Scroll sawing, carving, epoxying, wood burning,  drawing, pl,aning, and lots of sanding.:D

 

Herb

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Gene I did the leaves with the tip of my finger. Maw hooks the electricity to my rear.  From then on, there ain't no telling what I end up drawing. I once did the Gettysburg address five days before it ever happened...

  That's exactly why I ended up so cross eyed....Keeping one eye on Maw and the other on my projects..... Probably the reason I keep getting a head ache in my elbows.

5 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

I once did the Gettysburg address five days before it ever happened...

:lol::D:lol::D:lol:

23 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

I once did the Gettysburg address five days before it ever happened...

Did you copyright it? If so, you can sue for copyright infringement!

John

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Yes I did , but after they found out the Gettysburg address I was claiming was completely false for I stated I had made the address in Scottdale, New Mexico and not Gettysburg Oregon..Yep, I was counting my money way before they ever started making it.

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