Well, I have two of them.  https://www.wwgoa.com/article/5-expensive-but-worth-every-penny-woodworking-tools/?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=A5439&vsoid=A5439

 

 

Just one.....and it didn't cost that much....12" combo square....

25 minutes ago, kmealy said:

Well, I have two of them.

 

get the LV over the LN...

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=46791&cat=1,41182,41189,46791

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=56665&cat=1,230,41182

no need for the Starretts as long as what you do have is accurate...

Have a 4" Starrett combo square, a Dozuki saw and a little PC trim router.

I have the Starret squares

Stanley adjustable mouth block plane

Bosch trim router

Pull saws but not the expensive ones. 

Got two. The little Bosch router and the pull saws...got several of those. My Combo squares are all Stanley rust hunt finds.

I have the Starett 4" combo square and the Starett 12 " combo with the Center head and protractor head.

I sold my Starrett,and bought 2 Stanleys, I have several pull saws but like my LV/LN Gents saw best. To me the Starrett is overkill for wood working, great for when I was metal working. 4 trim routers,none Bosch, waiting for them to wear out before I buy a Bosch.

1 hour ago, Dadio said:

. To me the Starrett is overkill for wood working

Are you saying perfect 90's are overkill for woodworking ?

20 minutes ago, It Was Al B said:

Are you saying perfect 90's are overkill for woodworking ?

 

any square that is accurate will do that...

20 minutes ago, It Was Al B said:

Are you saying perfect 90's are overkill for woodworking ?

No, but .001" are.

Herb

I have 2 protractor head Staretts (inherited)

           2 regular staretts all 12 inch

            1 6 inch Starett

            1 4 inch Starett

             1 palm router

              2 pull saws both from LV

Does that make me the winner?

1 hour ago, Dadio said:

No, but .001" are.

I spent almost 20 years as a machinist/toolmaker   It taught me that  the ability to measure  very closely is never a disadvantage and that   tolerance stack can best be addressed by working to the tightest tolerances   possible.

Amazing any furniture pieces made by the Shakers and other 18th century craftsman even survived w/o use of these tools or electricity...just sayin

4 minutes ago, Grandpadave52 said:

Amazing any furniture pieces made by the Shakers and other 18th century craftsman even survived w/o use of these tools or electricity...just sayin

It was achieved Dave, but in today's world, if you want to make a living at it, accurate tools and power tools are needed to keep you competative. Speed is definitely a factor today.

6 minutes ago, It Was Al B said:

Speed is definitely a factor today.

I don't disagree in that regard Al, but for the average home woodworker speed or accuracy to .001" is typically not a factor unless you're mass producing parts that consistently need to be replicated.

 

Any measuring device, square etc. technically is only as accurate as it is initially calibrated and verified to the next higher level and so on eventually traceable to NIST (National Institute of Standards and Technology).

Buying high dollar combo squares doesn't guarantee it's accuracy any more so than a less expensive one unless it's purchased accurate certifiable traceable back to NIST.

A simple example of this is to purchase 3 standard 12' tape measures and layout marks as various points. If the tapes are from the same manufacturer and lot numbers, likely they'll be very close; if from different manufactures, unlikely they'll match from 0-12'.

 

I'm not bashing Starrett (or others)...in fact, I own some of their combo squares with center & angle finder (one was my grand-dads), micrometers and dial indicators from my previous work lives...all good...none have been calibrated nor re-certified for some time, so are they accurate? Maybe? However, for my work, they are satisfactory...my 0-1" mic measures the same as my $9.99 H-F digital calipers...I do have a 1" "plug" which came with the mic to "adjust" the mic when needed. However if the 1" plug is not certified then is it really 1"? Even then, that only ensures its accurate at 1"...not the full range.

 

Personally, I'll never be good enough in the wood-shop to need wood dimensions to .001"; well truthfully probably not even 0.01" or maybe even 0.10."  Shucks, somebody's gotta' keep the wood glue & filler manufacturers in business.

I rarely use any measuring device beyond the rough cutting stage. Well, I guess key way stock and 1,2,3 blocks plus a set open end wrenches are devices of a sort. 

Heck, wood moves. Often a lot more than 00.1". 

 

 

You're right Dave. That degree of accuracy is a bit of overkill. I definitely wouldn't try to compare my woodworking skills to that of some of the folks here. My problem with the cheaper combination squares is that  they are usually made of materials that don't hold the accuracy over time, either because of over tightening , or dropping, or bending etc. I've dropped my Starett several times over the years. What happens is the tightening pin usually breaks, but they are  easily replaceable. I usually keep at least one pin on hand. I 've never bent a rule or even  broken the level on the Starett. With confidence, it has always been my "go to" tool to check the accuracy of the 90's and 45's that are cut on TS, SCMS, and BS.

Have 12" Starrett but without protractor head, 4" LV double square, Ridgid trim router, two Dozukis one crosscut, one rip cut, and LV low angle block plane. My most reliable 90 degree device in my table saw sled that sighted in via the 5 cut method ala William Ng.

For accuracy I check with a plastic drafting triangle. Then there is the old line on the bench , flip the square mark again . Then compare the lines for parallel.