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Posted

...dem dag burn eye-talians...

 

...they got this blade stuff down pretty pat...

 

Good luck with it...

Posted
50 minutes ago, Nickp said:

...dem dag burn eye-talians...

 

...they got this blade stuff down pretty pat...

 

they certainly do....

Posted (edited)

Not only that, it has that nice "Ice" coating instead of that hideous red stuff they put on a lot of of their blades.

Edited by Fred W. Hargis Jr
Posted

Can't contain myself. Red or ice, Freud blades just don't measure up for me. 

Posted
42 minutes ago, skiler said:

Gene, Just curious why is that?

Ray, I use Shopsmiths, a Bosch Miter Saw">scms and a couple Skil saws. One thing I ask of a blade is smooth cuts in any wood, rip and cross cuts. I want surfaces fine enough for gluing, right off the saw. I think I've given Freud blades a fair trial. I've used the Glue Line rip, their industrial line and a few others. No Diablos, though. None meet my criteria. All leave surfaces that need further work before they can be used. 

The guy that sharpens my blades is a pretty sharp guy, and a fine woodworker. I had brought him several Freud blades to be resharpened and was complaining about their cuts. He said he wondered when I'd decide to upgrade. His gripes were that none of mine were properly balanced and there's not enough carbide to make it through many sharpenings. He recommended Amana, Tenryu, Forrest, and Infinity....there were others but, I can't remember. So I asked him which ones the pros use. He said most use Tenryu. So, as soon as I got home, I ordered several. That was about 10 years ago. Now, I don't use anything else.

A little long winded but, you asked.:D

 

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Posted

I did ask and I thank you very much. Always open to learning something new. :)

  • Like 2
Posted

Sorry to hear that, Gene ,I have had better luck , I use nothing but Feud blades on all my saws, I think they are better than Infinity that I used to use, but Infinity does have more Carbide on it's teeth. I have not had the problems you have, and use them for glue-ups. The 80t I have on the RA saw gives a glass smooth cut with no burn. And the 40t give great rip cuts,along with the 60t on the table saw. I don't rip anything thicker than 2 1/2" though on the table saw, thicker gets ripped on the band saw. I have several blades,all Freud lots of Red ones too and the minute they start feeling a little dull I change them and send a bunch to the saw shop for sharpening. I never could afford those expensive blades in the $100-$200 range.

 

Don't feel bad ,skiler, Freud blades are the working mans blade and do a respectable job.

 

Herb

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Posted
1 hour ago, Dadio said:

I never could afford those expensive blades in the $100-$200 range.

I know the feeling! :(

John

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Posted
3 hours ago, Dadio said:

Sorry to hear that, Gene ,I have had better luck , I use nothing but Feud blades on all my saws, I think they are better than Infinity that I used to use, but Infinity does have more Carbide on it's teeth. I have not had the problems you have, and use them for glue-ups. The 80t I have on the RA saw gives a glass smooth cut with no burn. And the 40t give great rip cuts,along with the 60t on the table saw. I don't rip anything thicker than 2 1/2" though on the table saw, thicker gets ripped on the band saw. I have several blades,all Freud lots of Red ones too and the minute they start feeling a little dull I change them and send a bunch to the saw shop for sharpening. I never could afford those expensive blades in the $100-$200 range.

 

Don't feel bad ,skiler, Freud blades are the working mans blade and do a respectable job.

 

Herb

Herb, It's probably the saw I'm using. It's a good machine but it's finicky. It's not the heaviest of saws and the slightest bit of blade wobble really shows up in the cut. I tried stabilizing plates with the Freuds and it help quite a bit. But, the Shopsmith arbor is short and the nut wouldn't screw all the way on. Scared me. 

My Tenryus are almost the same price as Freud's Industrial line for the same tooth count. The miter pro is about $20 more.

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Posted

Just to add to what I said before, I do have some thin kerf blades, but prefer the 1/8" for most work. The thicker blades seem more stable when ripping thin cuts in hard wood. The thin kerf work good in softer woods and plywood.  Some of my friends have the Forrest Blades and similar premium blades they use for special cuts, and make the cut , then change the blade, constantly doing this. I put my blade on use the thing til it gets dull then change it. Unless I am cutting used lumber then I change to a 40t SunHill combo blade,$20. and if i hit a nail, screw ,gravel etc. I haven't ruined a good blade. Although I have cut thru a drywall screw with the sun hill blade and It kept on going ,a little slower ,I might add.

Herb

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Posted
16 hours ago, Dadio said:

I never could afford those expensive blades in the $100-$200 range

Me either. I have used an off brand (Trend) for many years. They did a good job and lasted forever but not the quality of this Freud, So for me this is going from a Chevy to a Rolls Royce.

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