Some of the things I used on one jobber. My knuckles says thanks..

  

The smallest collet I have for the Foredom is a 1/4" so I don't use it too much.

Some serious die-grinders ya' have there Patch. I'd need a MUCH bigger compressor and probably a surge tank too.

You do wear hearing protection don't you?...those air motors are screamers.

9 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

those air motors are screamers.

 

But they run cool.  There are electric tools like that but they are heavier and run much hotter requiring stopping to let them cool.

Never thought about the sound being too much. I bought an oil less compressor to keep in the motor home in 2000 and it will drown out a freight train. So it never comes out of the basement storage in the camper.

  I don't think I ever run the air tools wide open. A used compressor with the motor and pump separate with a belt in between with about a 20 gallon tank is always the best bargain. Even with a hole in the tank for those can be welded up...

   Also if a person has a tank compressor he needs to have a water trap in the line as close to the tools being used as possible. All the nail guns and grinders will last longer with one in line.

I use the Dewalt 1/4" electric dremel. Love it...

Kevin you are talking about two different tools when you said Dewalt and Dremel?

Nope....

 

 

Hey, Patch, I have a Harbor Freight compressor that I have used for years.  Amazing, I know, but I read that you stated that a water filter should be used in line just before going to the tool.  Is there a way to filter the water before going into the tank.  Everytime, I let off the pressure of the tank, there is a couple of spoons of water.  It concerns me because of the rust.  The outside of the tank is already pitted and I wonder about the inside of the tank and its safety with thinning walls.  Just wondering.

Any time you are compressing outside air you're going to get some moisture condensing on the inside of the tank (unless you are in an extremely arid area).   draining the tank should be all you need (although, depending on size, i've heard of people coating the inside to prevent rust).   If it's an ASME tank it should be in pretty good shape pressure-wise.  Don't know about the outside and the  conditions that caused the rust there, but i would also treat that to stop further degradation.

 

Pre-compressor water removers fall into the $$$ category from what i've seen.   If that's an HF tank on there and considering the overall quality of (?) steel, you may want to rethink all that and get a new one.   

My compressor has a water collector before the line pressure regulator. It's not in constant use but, I drain the collector and the tank after each use. It's an 80 gallon tank. After draining, both valves stay open. Even in AZ, I get quite a bit of water after a few hours of use. 

Steve if you drain the tank every few minutes you will still have moisture lining the inside of the tank. If you spray paint or even using air to clean a surface sometimes you will be blowing a slight amount of moisture so this is the reason I use a water trap close to the end of the line. 

You can buy automatic a water ejector so you don't have to do it manually.

So Dewalt is written on the other side of the Dremel tool. Good idea for it should fool some of the folks some of the times but not all the folks all the time.

That is a cute little Dremel.  Nothing like a miniature router.

 

Thanks, Gene and Patch for your responses.  Since the tank is pitting, I was concerned that it may fail if the corrosion inside and outside happen to be in the same place of the tank.  I'll catch another on sale and put this one by the street.  Someone will pick it up.  It works great, especially for tires (car, bikes, wheelbarrow, dolly) and blowing sanding dust from my Shopsmith.  It has been very handy and it is about 20 years old.  Now, I get to upgrade.