Hello

I am getting ready to refinish our kitchen cabinets. They are currently ash stained a golden-cherry like color and the frames are cherry. I'm sure the original finish is nitro-cellulose. I plan to wash the doors clean and apply a coat of shellac followed by P&L 38 to keep the wood figure. For the frames, I plan to paint using a latex paint by Valspar sold at Lowe's So, after damage repairs are made, should I apply a coat of shellac before the primer and paint? If so, can I then use a water-based or oil-based primer, depending on what is required for the Valspar paint? 

Many thanks!

hat

   

One of the best reasons to apply a coat of shellac is to seal in any contamination that may survive the cleaning. So, Yes you should apply a coat (IMHO). You didn't ask but I want to add: be sure the paint you choose is 100% acrylic (sometimes labeled "latex" or "acrylic latex"). When someone says they will use "latex" paint I always think of wall paint....which is good for walls but not much else. That said, I did notice that some wall paints are now switching to a 100% acrylic formula.

Edited June 5, 20179 yr by Fred W. Hargis Jr

Shame you are covering over your Cherry and Ash but please coat with Shellac to seal everything and create layer this is quite easily stripped that way when the wood cabinets come back into Vogue you have a project and not a replacement going on.

 

2 hours ago, Michael Thuman said:

Shame you are covering over your Cherry and Ash but please coat with Shellac to seal everything and create layer this is quite easily stripped that way when the wood cabinets come back into Vogue you have a project and not a replacement going on.

 

Hey Michael, I'm not painting the ash doors, just the carcass face frames (poplar stained cherry). The color we have chosen is almost a duplicate of the existing color. Very minor percentage of total visible display. We want the wood figure of the doors to to show.

hat

 

Edited June 6, 20179 yr by hatuffej

The shellac, like Fred says, will seal in contamination (and odors).   Cheap insurance, IMO.  The reason for going to an acrylic is to avoid "blocking"   This is where the paint glues to itself and surrounding things set on it.   Manufacturers' labels don't always reflect the true product content.

 

Maybe you won't be able to find it on the products, but KCMA (Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers' Association) has a test for finishes suitable for kitchens.   Sometimes called the "junk test" it determines how well the finish stands up to common kitchen chemical/food hazards.

See "Finish Tests" in https://www.kcma.org/certifications/ansi-kcma-certification

 

Recently, I saw some oil-based(?) Valspar paint at Lowe's intended for furniture.  Saw it on an end-cap.   Now I can't remember what it was, maybe one of these

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Valspar-Project-Perfect-Java-Brown-Satin-Latex-Enamel-Interior-Exterior-Paint-Actual-Net-Contents-32-fl-oz/999979502

http://www.valsparpaint.com/en/find-the-right-product/interior/paint/valspar-furniture-paint.html

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Valspar-Cabinet-Enamel-Semi-Gloss-Latex-Interior-Paint-Actual-Net-Contents-124-fl-oz/999918096

 

 

BTW, Valspar has now been official acquired by Sherwin-Williams as of last week.

That is some tough standards Keith...

Cal

A job yesterday was a dozen less than 1/4" spots on top of a dining table.   I think the owner was a bit OCD because you had to be at exactly the right angle to the light to see them.  At least it was easier to repair than a spill from a bottle of nail polish remover.

 

With paint, you might consider water based enamel.  It dries much faster than latex.  I think it's better for furniture and furnishings.

On 6/12/2017 at 8:55 PM, kmealy said:

The shellac, like Fred says, will seal in contamination (and odors).   Cheap insurance, IMO.  The reason for going to an acrylic is to avoid "blocking"   This is where the paint glues to itself and surrounding things set on it.   Manufacturers' labels don't always reflect the true product content.

 

 

I settled on KILZ Original primer/sealer/stain blocker and Valspar Cabinet enamel. Do you think my choices are OK? Will "blocking" be a problem?

Many thanks to all.

hat

Blocking should not be a problem, that paint is described as an "alkyd/acrylic" hybrid (new to me). No idea of if that's a good choice of a primer.

I am not sure what KILZ is made from.  B.I.N. is a shellac-based primer, though in the last couple of years, you have to read the label VERY carefully as they has two versions, the original and another based on "synthetic shellac," whatever that is.More

 

Earlier discussion here: :

 

Edited June 22, 20179 yr by kmealy