I need to add solid sides to my trailer so that I can pick up mulch.

Please review my idea and let me know your thoughts.

Purchase 3/8 x 4 x 8 CDX sheet of plywood.

Purchase 2 X 1x4x8' of treated lumber.

1. Cut the plywood to fit the trailer length and width.

2. Cut the 1x4 into 3/4" square and mill a 3/8 deep by plywood thickness width dado down the middle.

3. on the top cord  taper so water will drain. 

4. on the top cords bottom install two saw curfs 1/16" deep 1/16" in both sides.  (Water drip edge). before glue

5. on the bottom cord top taper to the edge so water will not sit on the surface.

6. on the bottom cord bottom install two saw curfs 1/16" deep 1/16" in both sides.

7. The vertical cord on the ends of the plywood would fit under the top and bottom cords.

8. Wrap the CDX with the 1x4  glue with poly.  

9. install a 1/4" tapered bead of latex caulk to the joints.5.

10. Paint the assembly with a good external acrylic paint.

11.  During install on the trailer use carriage bolt in the wood and thru the metal rail then double nutted.  Use SS fasteners

I will send in pictures once I get to the build.

Do you think this will last for years or months?  The idea is to properly seal so that the plywood and 1x4 will last.

Is this over kill?

 

 

Edited December 5, 20178 yr by Ron Dudelston
tags added

When I did mine, there were stake pockets for 2x4.   I got a PT 2x4 and some PT 5/4 (sold as "thick decking?") that I used deck screws to hold in place.   Since the deck of my trailer was pressure treated 2x4, I knew it would last as long.   I made them removable so I could run naked if I wanted to.  (not in the literal sense).

 

This is the stripped down version (no photo of sides up that I have, but can do on request)

Keith thanks your look like mine but I do not have 2/4 pockets at the sides or front.  The hinged back will hold in the material.

 

Can you make 2X4 sockets by bolting on a 2X4 spaced out with 2X4 blocks? That makes the sides removable for loading,unloading etc.

Herb

All the more reason to take up welding... and add your own brackets.   Other than that, you have a plan. 

How high will the sides be?  imho, 3/8" plywood is not very strong.  I could picture spearing a hole through it while unloading bulk mulch with a pitch fork.

Cal

18 hours ago, Michael Thuman said:

Purchase 3/8 x 4 x 8 CDX sheet of plywood.

 

11 hours ago, clhyer said:

 

How high will the sides be?  imho, 3/8" plywood is not very stron

 

Michael, I have to agree with Cal, why not go with 1/2" ply vs 3/8"...also since you're using treated lumber elsewhere, consider buying treated ply. Yeah, more expensive up front, but should last 150% -200% longer than untreated in this application especially if painted. From your material list, I assume the trailer is 4'x8' or 5'x8'?

clhyer - 3/8" is actually quite strong.  With them carriage bolted to the frame they are removable but not easily.  But pitch fork abuse is why I use wood.

Dadiio - with my materials being 1" thick the spacer idea has me intrigued.  I may give that a shot. The side will be around 15.5 to 16".

p-toad - welding is not in my future as the equipment is a little costly to have given the amount of welding I would do.

 

1 minute ago, Grandpadave52 said:

 

Michael, I have to agree with Cal, why not go with 1/2" ply vs 3/8"...also since you're using treated lumber elsewhere, consider buying treated ply. Yeah, more expensive up front, but should last 150% -200% longer than untreated in this application especially if painted. From your material list, I assume the trailer is 4'x8' or 5'x8'?

5'x8' and given that I will only have them on when in use I expect the lesser materials to last quite log.

They do not make treated 3/8 in my area only 3/4.

 

If it was me building this, I would use 1/2" if not 3/4" ply..

Most everything I make any more I "over build". I want it to take some abuse without having to worry if it's going to hold up.

I try to be easy on things but there are some people around that aren't and tend to break things.

Edited May 25, 20179 yr by Harry Brink

Rather than convert the whole trailer, have you considered making hinge-top boxes to carry the mulch?  Rotate on side to empty, dropping the top so mulch can be raked out.  Boxes would be modular, and can be removed to use the trailer as-is. 

PeteM good idea but the mulch is 2 yds cubic and will over fill the trailer as it is with the sides  then a tarp tightly fastened keeps everything in place until we get home.

 

Harry I agree but I want to try the thinner material first because if the load is 1 Ton the tangential load is 1/10 Ton.

I will bulid it and show it in up coming pictures and if it fails I will build it again with 3/4"

The trick is the side are on 16" tall and have 1" wide caps on all ends making it quite a rigid but light wall.

Then with other thoughts I will fasten the front panel into the sides with angle iron.  Or erect 6 pockets where I can just slide them in.

But I will have 1" holes every 6" along the length 1 1/4" from the top this  provides plenty of places to mount the hooks and balls for the tarp.

  

If you go with the thicker sides you can use them as ramps to load your motorcycle ,riding mower, ATV etc..

just saying,

Herb

All the sides are now 1/2" treated plywood because that is what the local store had.

I hope to start building tonight and show you pictures.

 

Just a thought...forget the build...make two trips...dont think that 5x8 will take the weight of 2 yards anyway...

20 minutes ago, Nickp said:

Just a thought...forget the build...make two trips...dont think that 5x8 will take the weight of 2 yards anyway...

Point to certainly consider.

If it has a 3k axle, actual gross is about 2990, less weight of trailer ( ~600 lb for most 5x8's) = payload of ~2360 lb...should be OK even counting extra weight of sides.

There are some manufactured trailers in the 4x8-5x8 class that do only have 1500 lb axles...I know I don't want the mulch to be too wet for my 6x12, single axle..3 yards pushes it...

 

"...Weights for products will vary due to moisture content. Typically, mulch products weigh between 400-800 lbs. per cubic yard; 2 yds = 800-1600 lb..."

With the sides and front open and essentially flat with the trailer floor. most of the mulch will fall out if I do not build the sides.

Also if wet 2 trips.  The compost was wet and when loaded was ok with the load but definitely heavy.

The mulch should be dryer but with the sides only being 16" tall.  So time for math.  5' x 8' x 1.333' is 53.32 cubic ft.  1 cubic yard = 27 cub ft.

2 cuyd = 54 cuft.  

So if filled to the brim I am just under 2 yd.

So the way the works he has a 2 1/2 yd bucket and slowly loads it.

We watch the suspension on the trailer and give him the signal when approaching a full load.

Grandpa I have a 2k gross load capacity.  So 2 yd I should be OK if dry at max fill. 2K - 600 - 1400   mulch cannot be more that 1400 lbs.

But with no scale we just watch the springs.