I just saw (yet another) post about blotching on another forum. Now, to be honest it's not something I ever worry about....one man's blotch is another man's figure. But it always involves maple or cherry, and I guess I can empathize with the opinion even though I don't see it as a problem. But I did a reply from one Charles Neil pertaining to this. While most solutions involve sealing the wood with something, then moving on to whatever is next. He suggested something I've never heard and though I would share: first wipe the wood with water (damp, not wet), then oil away. This is specific to using oil on cherry. I intend to try (someday, if i ever get a shop again!) it just for the learning factor. Anyway, thought it might be of interest.

I always thought that blotching occurred due to the different densities of a piece of wood. Maybe the dampness is absorbed into the softer portions and that changes the amount of finish that can be taken up by the wood. This is just a guess, of course.  Like you, I never really worried about it too much.

Charles also sells a water based blotch control solution that works well on maple. Never tried it on cherry. 

Blotches are probably no biggie for turners but, on flat work, it really bugs me. 

Interesting.   That's a new one to me. Sounds like it's plausible.  I wonder how you'd test this since blotching varies over a specific piece,

 

Recently, I've been using a lot of w/b stains of a better quality than the yellow can and have  not had problems with blotching.  But I do very little in pine or poplar that seem to be worst offenders.

 

The ways I know to control blotching are to

• Lean toward dye stains instead of pigment
• Use a gel stain
• Do a wash coat (Flexner has some interesting observations on the directions of "Pre-Stain Conditioners".   I ran some sample boards with the same results as he.  http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/battling_blotching and http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/wood_conditioner_confusion )also http://www.refinishwizard.com/washcoatsolids.htm
• Apply a coat of finish, then a glaze, which is sort of like a wash coat on steroids
• Apply a toner -- done with lots of commercial furniture.   One issue with this approach is that if you chip the finish, white wood shows.  If you go real dark, you tend to get opaque.

 

I don't tend to watch a lot of his videos.   I tend to get impatient with people who are ill-prepared and don't get to the point.  I psychologist who tested me once said that I choose my words carefully and succinctly and I wish other people would too.  (maybe contrary to current posts???)

For the record I am anything but a Neil fan, at least when it comes to finishing. I just brought this up because it's new to me. I'm guessing more or less what Lew said, the water prevents the softer portions from absorbing as much color. But lest i discredit Charles too much, he is an extremely talented woodworker, made some really nice stuff...he just gets a little sideways on some finishing issues. I've never seen any of his videos, not much for watching that type of thing on the 'puter.

I didn't mean to bad-mouth Charles too much.    I just don' t have 30 minutes time to get 5 minutes of information. 

16 minutes ago, kmealy said:

I didn't mean to bad-mouth Charles too much.    I just don' t have 30 minutes time to get 5 minutes of information. 

There is that.

He's just a good, ole country boy with some gems among the rambles. His trace coat technique is one of my favorites. 

And, his antique furniture reproductions are superb...way beyond my meager skills.