Came in my in-box today.   Hmm.   I've done a lot of glazing but have always used specific glaze products.  ZAR stains appear to be oil based and fairly thick.   But I'd have to try this on some scrap before committing to a project (rule #3 )   In the fine print it says it will not adhere to shellac or lacquer (which they don't mention in the video).  One thing that I'd be wary of is some stains won't cure well when put on too thickly, so wipe-off is important.  I always let glazes dry at least 24 hours unless I am "shooting through the glaze."   This is a procedure where  you have a very specific window, say 30-120 minutes after application, where you can apply a lacquer and it will bind into the glaze.  Otherwise, you have to wait 24 hours.

 

 

Thanks, I am really learning a lot about finishing!

Just curious but since there are plenty of glazes out there why would anyone want to ask for a disaster and do something with an unknown results......stripping and starting over is time wasted...

20 minutes ago, Smallpatch said:

Just curious but since there are plenty of glazes out there why would anyone want to ask for a disaster and do something with an unknown results......stripping and starting over is time wasted...

Well, they're trying to sell more product. ;-)

 

10 hours ago, kmealy said:

Well, they're trying to sell more product. ;-)

 

 Exactly!