Good Morning Friends,

 Well another Saturday has come around and time for a new quiz for the week;

Is it really necessary to have a jointer in your shop? If you think so, Why?

A jointer makes things flat.   Removes twists, cuts, warps, etc.

A planer makes things even thickness.

 

Most people (I think) tend to just use a jointer for edge jointing.   I think that's not using its full capability.

 

 

Keith has it right.  There are a few other good ways to edge joint a board but a jointer is the best means for making one side flat.  The planer takes care of the other side.

Edited May 20, 20179 yr by HandyDan

Didn't realize how much easier life could be til I got the jointer. Makes one side nice and flat

Mornin' Ralph -

The only jointer that was ever in my shop was a Stanley #7...I could not justify the cost of the powered versions for my hobby.  My router (with a straight-edge guide) did a great job of squaring edges...I have also used my router table with an offset in the fence to square up an edge.  Warped and twisted material either got used for small piece work or went into the fireplace.

Dave.

I suppose you can get away without one, a lot of guys do. Usually there are workarounds for some of the functions it provides. That's not my opinion, I want one in my shop.

1 hour ago, Ralph Allen Jones said:

Is it really necessary to have a jointer in your shop?

no...

 

R4 JOINER SUBSTITUTE.pdf

I just use mine for edge joining.

Herb

Keith, Dan, Gerald nailed it...'er joined it...well gave the best answers

2 hours ago, Wirebender said:

Mornin' Ralph -

The only jointer that was ever in my shop was a Stanley #7...I could not justify the cost of the powered versions for my hobby.  My router (with a straight-edge guide) did a great job of squaring edges...I have also used my router table with an offset in the fence to square up an edge.  Warped and twisted material either got used for small piece work or went into the fireplace.

Dave.

Hey, that's why the call #7 and #8 planes "jointer planes."     I've seen people surface plane well with one -- just not me.  Flatten one face, then mark thickness and plane to even thickness all around.

 

While we're visiting, I believe that having a planer not only allows you to buy rough or semi-rough (hit and skip) lumber, but frees you from having everything 3/4" thick.  Some stuff, like small boxes, just look too clunky at 3/4"

I have always wanted to get a jointer, but it just never happened. I use my router table to do the edge jointing with a straight bit which has worked ok for me for the few projects that I needed to edge glue. 

6" Jointer was first large tool I bought new.  Could not find quality used when I was looking for one.  Have never regretted buying one and wouldn't want to be without one.   

Good Morning Friends,

I had a 6" jointer once and sold it because it never got used for I was always in the habit of cutting the wood to a rough size of what I was going to make and then used a straight edge to edge the boards on the table saw and then used the planer to surface the wood to thickness. This process for me was all I needed and still use this method.

 

Thank you all for your support.

A planer sled and wedges do a fine job with non conforming lumber.

My 6" and 4" jointers are strictly edge jointers. 

This is the sled I use.

Edited May 21, 20179 yr by Gene Howe

38 minutes ago, Ralph Allen Jones said:

then used the planer to surface the wood to thickness.

 

why not do this 1st and give your self a registered flat surface to work from so when you do do the edges they are  more likely to be 90° to the face???

Stick, you are correct, I just typed it in wrong.