At the last club meeting, one of our members presented a "Methods of Work" on coloring wood with a lye solution.  FWW had an article on this years ago, too.

 

 

Never saw that approach before.  Looks effective.

As Artie used to say, " Veeerry intersting." 

Gotta try it.

Because it wasn't addressed, I'm assuming subsequent finishes are not affected??

Edited May 9, 20179 yr by Gene Howe

Thanks, Keith.

 

Interesting, indeed. I hazard a guess, that, finishing (especially prep work) are not favorite pastimes for many of us. With that said, we forget or ignore the old time tips and tricks. Instead we concentrate on the quick down and dirty materials that we can find in the store, and buy in a can. We all seem to forget (or don't know about) methods like these.

 

There are a lot of "old timey" tricks; lye, Potassium Permanganate, and even straight white vinegar, baking soda, that, can alter or enhance the finished effects on wood.

 

Maybe this would be a good thread, or maybe a separate dedicated one, for the members to post similar experiences and knowledge. It could act as a library of alternative effects and finishes. How about it, guys, anyone else with similar tips?

I know that oxalic can whiten/lighten wood and, a steel wool and vinegar solution can ebonize. And now, I learn that lye and water can alter the colors of many woods. That section of my brain is now full.

2 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

I know that oxalic can whiten/lighten wood and, a steel wool and vinegar solution can ebonize. And now, I learn that lye and water can alter the colors of many woods. That section of my brain is now full.

Aw, come on, Gene, you can squeeze in one or two more!

Whilst looking for an alternative to TV last evening, I stumbled into this.  I have used chemicals a few times, some times with good results, some times without.  It used to be it was hard to find lye because of the meth labs' use most places didn't carry it any more.   But anyway, trials, especially on the same boards are essential (see Marc's comment on cherry from two different trees).   I usually tell people that chemical stains are a "ready, fire, aim" approach -- or as one of my former co-workers used to say, "Don't give up the whip."    Andy, the presenter at the club alludes to this.  

If I'm doing a one-off, it's not so bad, but if I'm aiming for a match or a particular finish, it's a crapshoot.

 

 

 

I've seen Rob Millard use potassium dichromate to color mahogany, and couldn't believe how fast it darkened the color...it was immediate. I'd have to keep it all written down somewhere, including the dilutions used. I also noticed what looked like a whole lot of donut boxes off to the speaker's right in the video.....I may not have been able to follow the session with all them around.

Edited May 9, 20179 yr by Fred W. Hargis Jr

10 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

I I also noticed what looked like a whole lot of donut boxes off to the speaker's right in the video.....I may not have been able to follow the session with all them around.

 

Yes, one of the reasons to come to the club meeting.  As president of the club, I make sure we have a supply of donuts at each meeting.

 

If any of you are ever within distance of Cincinnati, we meet the second Saturday morning of odd-numbered months, except July.  Feel free to stop in and join us.   Details on our web site http://www.cincinnatiwoodworkingclub.org (currently under rehab) or Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/cincinnatiwoodworkingclub/

Here ya go, Fred. As you'll read, it's 1 tsp of dichromate to 1 cup of. water.

http://www.sawdustzone.org/articles/tutorials-how-to/824947-potassium-dichromate-chemically-coloring-wood

5 hours ago, schnewj said:

Aw, come on, Gene, you can squeeze in one or two more!

When it came to allotments, I had to prioritize. Only have a limited capacity to work with. I suppose I could delete a couple like "how to pick up girls". But I must keep the section on skipping rocks.