I ran across an old post from somewhere else last night.   I made a statement that the table saw was the most useful tool in my shop.  Someone responded that he could do anything with his circular saw that I could do with my table saw.   I also regularly see that, "Buy that [Festool] track saw and it will replace your table saw."    Umm, I think not.  I've always considered that a fantasy.  After attending the joinery seminar last weekend and reading the cabinetmaking book I recently mentioned, it got me back on my soap box.  I should note that I do have a sliding cross-cut table and a tenoning jig on my TS.

 

I came up with a list of things I can do easily with a table saw that I couldn't do at all or with great difficulty and numerous jigs with a track saw:
 

Cuts on edge or end of a board

- tenons

- bridle joints

- slip joints

- edge grooves (e.g., for a panel insert)

- rabbets - joint variations such and tongue & groove, dado & rabbet, double rabbet joint, dovetailed rabbet, etc.

- half lap

- splined miters

- keyed/feathered miters

- box/finger joints

- dovetails (yes, I've done them on a table saw)

- Resawing (I've done this down to about 1/16")

 

Any cut deeper than about 1.75"

 

Operations using something other than a standard blade

- dadoes and grooves with a dado set

- molding head

 

Bevels less than 45 degrees (or more than 45 degrees if you're using your tilt gauge)

- raised panels

- tapered slip tenon

 

Operations on stock that's lot straight and square

- mitering profiled moldings  such as crown molding, picture frame stock (some of which might be compound miter)

 

Other

- cove cutting circular or elliptical

- slab seat profiling (Mario Rodriguez: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SveP71RLs4)

- set up fence or stop(s) and "Measure once, cut 1000 times"

 

- circle cutting

- working on very small pieces (I can easily cut 1" off a 2" long, 1" wide board on my TS)

 

</soapbox>

Edited April 21, 20179 yr by kmealy

Not to mention the $$$ you need to spend for a tool that has limited use.

Well, I have a track saw and anytime someone suggests it's a replacement for the TS I try to find out what they're smoking. It's like an RAS...a complimentary tool to the TS (IMHO). But I can tell you my track saw doesn't see "limited" use. I've found it really great for a number of things, Probably the most use is straight edging rough sawn lumber in prep for other machining. True, they are expensive, but I got mine when the Bing 25% rebate was going, and I slipped it through before Festool slammed the door on the Bing discounts. That said, it doesn't have to be a track saw, but a good circ saw with a well made guide will work, and cost a lot less.

32 minutes ago, lew said:

Not to mention the $$$ you need to spend for a tool that has limited use.

Not quite, but almost a "uni-tasker."

I have a couple of shop-built and purchased guides for guiding my circular saw (or router).   I use them a couple of times a year to break down sheet goods when I happen to be doing a project that starts with 4x8 sheets.  Even then, I rough cut a bit over and get a finish cut on my table saw.

Not to take away from you but should this thread and others like it recently all go into the tools forum.

I would take the table saw over the track saw ant day hands down.

2 hours ago, Michael Thuman said:

Not to take away from you but should this thread and others like it recently all go into the tools forum.

Moved, thanks Michael.

I do not buy into the idea that a track saw can replace a table saw. I have both and I love and use them both, but each one has and knows its' place in the shop

There have been times when I wished I had a track saw, but it could never replace my table saw.

2 hours ago, It Was Al B said:

There have been times when I wished I had a track saw, but it could never replace my table saw.

Make one. Rip a piece of 3/4 apple ply about 10" wide and 8' long. Rout a dado approx. 2" from one edge, the size of some T track. That 2" is for clamping. Epoxy the track in. Cut a short piece of track insert, an inch longer than your circular saw's sole plate. Attach it to the sole plate. I was lucky. The Skil 77 had holes for the attachment. 

Your first cut establishes the cut line. 

Works like a charm.