NURSING CRIPPLED LEG BUT, will set up in a two car garage,ok.  Have 4 x 8 work table.GONNA frame with 2x6's. Top frame will have a floor on bottom of 2x. This floor will be where several things will live til needed. OK, TOP will be 3/4 ply x 8',cut in half, piano hinge on one side, so i can raise 4' section, remove or take out whats needed. SURE i could have a shelve lower down for etc., etc.  WHATA YA THINK, BE BRUTAL..

Be OK as long as what you're working on doesn't cover the "lifting" side, else you'll need to move the project before you can get to what you want.

Sure seems like what Lew said would be the case. If you're working on something, and then need that gizmo stored under the top you'll have a heck of a time getting to it.

If I understand you correctly,

I'd opt for a Paulk-style top.  The sides (your 2x6s) will have cut-outs to make interior storage area.  It's a modified torsion box.   A lot of the beam strength comes from the distance between the top and bottom (like an I-beam) and adding a torsion box style interior increases the overall stiffness.  The cutouts allow access and also reduce the weight (Ron Paulk's original design allowed for a knock-down carried from his truck to on-site contracting work.)  I think it was this video where he concludes since Jay's use is not needed to be portable, he'd make one large top instead of two small ones butted up.

 

https://jayscustomcreations.com/2015/06/modified-paulk-workbench/

 

Edited April 21, 20179 yr by kmealy

Paulk's workbench, how could I work on that! I'd feel like setting up some dining chairs and using that for our dining room table, it's beautiful!

Have built two options for my little shop of horrors....

Doesn't HAVE to be made, any old dresser would do....( curb finds)

And, for stuff under the bench..

Sized to match a bench...has my Stanley 2246 mitre box sitting on that shelf, now