Currently my shop is a block walled basement with a walk out section.

Given the advice on insulation I have received and my location.

I will insulate with infofast EX 2.5 panels against the block wall. 

Then Termax 1.55  for a combined R20.

The Thermax does NOT need drywall or other covers but I am concerned on the pristine white appearance. 

With the primary use being a shop what would you cover your walls in to maximize the use of the space?

Plywood, OSB, or leave it as the Thermax surface?

 

I'm not familiar with Thermax, but I would want to be able to hang stuff on the wall. If that;s possible with thermax, I'd leave it...if not cover it with something. I really dislike the look of OSB, even if it's painted (may actually look worse to me then), so I'd go with the ply.

You hang nothing on Thermax behind the Thermax is Insofast with plastic runners every 16" that are glued to the block.  The runners are plastic though so the load cannot be very high.

 

How do you mount electrical fixtures in this type of wall? Are you planning to use conduit or Romex? Code won't allow Romax on the surface of the wall. I did something similar in a basement shop. I put treated 2 X 4 on the floor and standard on the ceiling joist. Then 2" foam on the wall, glued. Then 2x4 laid flat on 16"  centers screwed to the block with tap cons (need to get 5 inch from Fastenal). Can fill in between studs with 1.5" foam if you wish. 2 inch foam has R of 11 and 1.5 has 7 ish. Give about 18 total. Route Romex in grooves in foam and attach boxes to the 2 x 4 where desired. Cover with you wall covering of choice per Fred's reply. Remember to coat the block wall with a moisture sealing paint like Drylok as your first step.

3 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

I would want to be able to hang stuff on the wall

I think this would be a primary consideration.

 Remember to coat the block wall with a moisture sealing paint like Drylok as your first step.

+1...Absolutely!

Thanks for the advice, This is probably still a year away.

The electrical is run down the center of the basement by the poles and will not interfere with the outside wall.

May be some in the ceiling.

The cabinets and such can be mounted to the insofast runners with longer screws.  

The Thermax is to provide a fire resistant barrier

I like the idea of painting the block first but then I am gluing to paint not block.

 

Block walls are permeable to water vapor, so are concrete walls. Having insulation, which has no water permeability, against the wall  could eventually result in condensation on the block wall and down the road could lead to mildew and mold buildup. The moisture resistant  paint keeps the water vapor in the block wall out of the conditioned space. The glue will stick to the paint just fine. 

Thanks for all the work here is another question.  If you go to insofast that is the product of choice. Per the EPA I would use 2.5 EX panels.  They come with electrical chases, drain channels, and I get R10 with 2.5" thick panels.  https://insofast.com/explore/project-prep-before-you-install-insofast/

I will do both the chemical treatment of the walls and floor and also the drylock sealant on the walls. https://insofast.com/explore/waterproofing-moisture-management/

I am considering doing the floor 2.0" insofast panels with 3/4" T&G floor covering but I am concerned the heavy machines with their rather pointed loads may over compress or crush the 2.0 panels.  Any thoughts?

Also the Walls I am considering 3/4" T&G fastened to the plastic joists in the panels.

Then I can add cabinets and tools.  

When I die and the hose sells the new owner can install hardwood floors over the T&G and then remove the T&G from the walls but put up drywall.

Drywall for a shop just does not sound right to me.

Has any of you put shop tools over a insulated basement floor?

Edited March 15, 20178 yr by Michael Thuman

I seen some folks lay down 2 x 4 pressure treated lumber flat as sleepers on the floor on 2 ft or 16 inch centers with insulation in between them. Could help you level out the floor. Then they attached the floor or subfloor to the them. If you're using oil base Drylok be sure to have respiratory protection and lots of ventilation. You could go with 1.5 inch foam for the floor to match the 2x4 thickness. 

Not sure what you situation is for sound transfer to the upstairs and other rooms adjacent to you shop. Double sheet rock on the ceiling is recommended by some as effective sound insulation.. I used Roxul insulation in my ceilings for sound control but there a probably better options. Sound insulation suppliers my have some suggestions for you. 

15 hours ago, scarletjim said:

I seen some folks lay down 2 x 4 pressure treated lumber flat as sleepers on the floor on 2 ft or 16 inch centers with insulation in between them. Could help you level out the floor. Then they attached the floor or subfloor to the them. If you're using oil base Drylok be sure to have respiratory protection and lots of ventilation. You could go with 1.5 inch foam for the floor to match the 2x4 thickness. 

The challenge is the sleepers form a thermal bridge to the floor and therefore should not be used.

I need a continuous insulation of the floor of R8 or better which requires 2" foam it has to be.  

15 hours ago, scarletjim said:

Not sure what you situation is for sound transfer to the upstairs and other rooms adjacent to you shop. Double sheet rock on the ceiling is recommended by some as effective sound insulation.. I used Roxul insulation in my ceilings for sound control but there a probably better options. Sound insulation suppliers my have some suggestions for you. 

Thanks for thinking of the other residents.  Many of the ducts sit below the rafters in the ceiling.  How would one resolve that If I were to drywall ?

Also the hvac system acts a a large speaker.  I was going to insulate that with rigid on the main trunk and glass bats on the round ones.  

COVER WALLS WITH STYROFOAM THAT HAS FOIL, FOIL ON SHOP SIDE TO REFLECT LIGHT, BEEN THERE DONE THAT.