By setting up a jig to trap  the work and run it at some rakish angle to the blade to obtain a large cove?

 

I've seen it and experimented with it. Never produced the actual useable molding.  To my mind  the sanding would be a bot of a problem taking out the saw blade marks.  Have you done it? What was you experience like? How about when mitering the corners together - -  did the sanding make it difficult because of  differential stock removal from sanding?

 

 

Edited December 8, 20178 yr by Ron Dudelston
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I see that as a method of copying an old piece of molding that can't be bought.  It would not be a good idea for a production run on a lot of molding.

I've done this several times but mostly for dedicated projects and you are right about the sanding part. Lots and lots of sanding.

 

For me, all of the pieces were installed similar to crown molding. Pieces were made as long stock, sanded and then cut/mitered to install. I didn't really have any trouble matching corners.

I did it once, and pretty much convinced myself I wouldn't do it again. All the proponents seem to leave out the part about how hard the clean up (milling marks) is. I tried scrapers and sandpaper, it was a ton of work no matter what I used. I've read this thing takes a lot of drudgery out of it by producing much smoother cuts. But at that price I'll figure something else out (won't work on my TS anyway).

some things you just buy.  or you change your design.

I made this built up molding entirely on the Table Saw Cliff. When I get in tonight I'll go into some depth. Short part of the story, it was a breeze, and it has some huge benefits by doing it this way, and the cove on the TS was a snap, I'll never buy another off the shelf molding again.

 

I made a chair seat on the table saw and it had minimal sanding.I would do it again sure beats scooping.

 

 

 

i gave my neighbor a hand doing with this some large-ish pieces of wood that had to fit onto logs...   it was a handful and i never felt it was very safe, but it did work.

 

 

Recent post showed a Rockler jig for cove cuts on table saw...$90...but I like what Wood Whisperer did... see here

I did it on some large mouldings for an entertainment center. Even after sanding and scraping it was still not perfect, but you have to be right on it to see that. Miters worked out very well.

nice detail work...

Nice moldings Gerald.  I like the 8s in the grain.

Nicely done Gerald. What type of molding head/cutters do you have?

Thanks for the comments. Dan I had never noticed the 8's .

Dave the cove is done on the TS and the rest is with one of those very large multi cutters for router. You can get a lot of different shapes from it ,but I prefer dedicated bits as the large ones tend to slip in the collette or otherwise vibrate.

Thanks Gerald...I've made some using a 3 blade molding head (Craftsman) on my TS in a step process changing cutters but as I've gotten older that thing creeps me out at times. A lot of mass spinning with very sharp blades...

Familiar with the type of router bit(s) you're describing, but don't own any of those (yet)....Beautiful work on your part...

 

Yes and when those single multi cutter router bits gets dull they all are dull.  I like the individual shapes per bit. A simple bit for a simple minded person, thats me..

   I thought about using a table saw like that but my extremities keep waving no....but I did make the jigs to saw out the chair bottoms.

 I  like this kind of doings in pictures Gerald.Thanks for letting all see.

Just realized I did not show the cove cutting jig. Not sure where I got the plan.

Ok it is a Wood plan as you can see

14 minutes ago, Gerald said:

Ok it is a Wood plan as you can see

Gerald, that's a really nice jig for cove cutting. 

Maybe it's overkill but, I use another board on the outboard side, too. Have you ever thought you needed one? 

I have used one on other jigs but with this one the force of the spinning blade pushed the stock into the fence.