OK, I've decided to go with kraft faced wall insulation, and staple the flaps inside the studs to keep future drywal folks happy. Now, what about the ceiling? The original plan was a plastic vapor barrier stapled to the trusses, then the rock goes on and the insulation would be blown in. This has a few bummers. The first being the drywallers won't like it. The second being that I stand a towering 5'7"  () and doing it by myself on a 10' ceiling might be more than I can handle; in fact I was wondering if the drywallers would include that in their work (the thinking is they would object less if they were paid for it). I suppose I could put up R13 kraft faced (or foil faced) stapling the flaps inside the trusses, have it rocked, then blow in more insulation. Opinions?

Edited November 20, 20178 yr by Ron Dudelston
tags added

I'm not sure, but wouldn't green board accomplish the same thing? A slight bit more expensive per panel but less overall, I'd think. Certainly less time on the ladder.

Edited February 11, 20179 yr by Gene Howe

why not do R30???

I'll blow in loose fill over the R13...which would only be there for the vapor barrier. I probably won't stop at R30, went to R40 on the last one.

 

Gne, that's a though..I've also read that there are vapor barrier paints available as well; maybe that's another possibility.

Edited February 11, 20179 yr by Fred W. Hargis Jr

I am not familiar with blown in insulation, can you pump it in after dry-walling? Through strategically placed holes in the dry wall, then patch and paint after?

Fred, the green board and/or that paint would certainly be less labor than stuffing that insulation from a ladder. 

BTW... IIRC, you have plenty of ventilation up there. What's your worry about moisture? Or, have I lived in this arid climate too long?

John, the blown in is only in the ceiling; the walls will have fiberglass. I like the way the loose fill gets in all the nooks and crannies in the attic.

Gene, I'm not sure I am worried about moisture, unlike a house the shop will have no cooking, hot water, showers and whatever to generate moisture.....so maybe I should give the vapor barrier a pass (?). It sure would make things easier. Orrrr.....just put a coat of the VB paint on the whole interior and call it good. there is plenty of ventilation, the 12" soffits are all perforated and there's a ridge vent running the length of the roof.

Yeah, I thought I remembered that. That VB paint should do the trick, then. 

4 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

Now, what about the ceiling?

Well that's what I was saying, how about let the drywallers for the ceiling do their thing, then after they are done, place some holes in the ceiling to have the insulation blown in between the ceiling joists? Then after the stuff is blown in, follow up with patches for the access holes.

1 hour ago, John Morris said:

Well that's what I was saying, how about let the drywallers for the ceiling do their thing, then after they are done, place some holes in the ceiling to have the insulation blown in between the ceiling joists? Then after the stuff is blown in, follow up with patches for the access holes.

leave an attic access instead and do it the less mess/work method...

if you do an attic through holes like you suggest there is no way to control uniformity an you'll have an incomplete job...

I'll have easy access to the attic, so getting up there with the hose won't be a problem. What I've done in the past was buy enough insulation to fill to a certain level, then I put marks on the trusses at that level so i can (sort of) keep relatively level as I blow the stuff in. Other than the mess and the need to have someone feeding the blower with the bales, it's not a bad job. The more I think about it,  I'm leaning toward letting the vapor barrier part go (none), and the ventilation should clear any moisture. That way, they can put up the drywall and I'll just insulate later.

Why would just plastic stapled to the rafters cause the drywallers a problem ?   It is done around here all the time.   I can see  stapling the kraft paper to the front of the studs could cause bulges, but the plastic would not unless you wadded it up.  Staple up the plastic, drywall it then insulate.  See what the drywallers say about it.   Roly

 Also recommend the attic access.    You may want up there to add wiring or for lighting or power drops.

Edited February 11, 20179 yr by Roly

59 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

leave an attic access instead and do it the less mess/work method...

if you do an attic through holes like you suggest there is no way to control uniformity an you'll have an incomplete job...

Ahh, so you got an attic, attics aren't always a thing in a home where I come from, I forgot!

But then, where I come from, just flat out aint right much of the time.

Roly, good idea about the lights and maybe an outlet. I'll do that, I've got on of the drop down stairs for the access. I don't plan on storing anything up there, but want to be able to get in for the insulation and any maintenance stuff that may pop up.

Well, I have a plan. I picked up the wall insulation last week when Menards had it on sale, R19 Kraft faced rolls. I'm going to go with plastic sheeting on the ceiling under the drywall, and then blow in cellulose ( I think, may go fiberglass). Since I'm doing all this, I'll insulate the storage side of the building as well....in case it ever needs heat in the future. Thanks to all for the input and counsel.

On 2/11/2017 at 11:09 AM, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

John, the blown in is only in the ceiling; the walls will have fiberglass. I like the way the loose fill gets in all the nooks and crannies in the attic.

Gene, I'm not sure I am worried about moisture, unlike a house the shop will have no cooking, hot water, showers and whatever to generate moisture.....so maybe I should give the vapor barrier a pass (?). It sure would make things easier. Orrrr.....just put a coat of the VB paint on the whole interior and call it good. there is plenty of ventilation, the 12" soffits are all perforated and there's a ridge vent running the length of the roof.

The shop will have humans and possibly animals and that is the source of the higher humidity in the heated space.  That you do not what to move outside.  Also the vapor barrier acts as a method to stop airflow between heated and ventilated space.  Be aware of any opening in the walls or ceiling and seal them with expanding foam.  This will stop most all drafts and lower your bills.