OK, I'm not even close to being ready to insulate my shop...but the sales are going on now before they switch to trees and patio furniture. So I'm thinking I need to buy it now even if I won't use it for a few months. Here's the opinions I'm after: I can choose unfaced (this is wall insulation, BTW. Ceiling will be blown in), install it, and cover with a plastic vapor barrier. Or I can choose kraft faced and be done with it. The Kraft faced option is quite a bit more expensive, and in my mind probably not s good as the plastic sheet thing. One other question: I'm hoping to have the drywall done by drywallers. I've been told that with kraft faced insulation they generally get upset with having the flaps stapled on the face of the studs....something about making it harder to get the drywall seams even. Any truth to that?

Edited November 20, 20178 yr by Ron Dudelston
tags added

I think that's true about the flaps, but, I think a lot of people do staple the flaps to the "edge" of the studs.

You can shove it in so the flaps turn out, and staple to the 6" "face". 

If you go with the plastic sheeting, won't you have the same problem? 

I did the same thing Fred - bought it while on sale. I have half done and the other half stored. I used the Kraft faced insulation. I did staple on the studs. As for the drywall guys - they would probably complain if you hung them with a new rope. Tell them if it was easy, then there would be no one working at Burger King.

(Sorry, but I have had lots of issues with dry wall trades)

Was just wondering how the shop-build was going.   Have any photos?

7 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

something about making it harder to get the drywall seams even. Any truth to that?

they do get up set because they can...

but if they did/do the job right it is a non issue... and you are putting level 4 or 5 finish in...

 

batt insulate...

4 mil+ VB...

horizontal OSB...(but not 7/16'' thick - use 1/2'')  no need to find a stud to hang about anything...

nailers/blocking everywhere...

walls strength is radically increased...

no accidentally punctured/punched out walls.. only dents

can be hung w an air nailer using ring shanks...

hang your fire rated rock vertically... (code and insurance compliant in the event something goes wrong later)...

way less waste...

way less labor...

all tapered seams...

drywall doesn't need to orient to the studs..

walls are flatter...

 

no OSB underlayment???...

buy the rock to fit the wall to eliminate butts and finishing...

if you do have butts put the butts between the studs and use RockSplicers or a 1x4...

walls are automatically flatter...

it's a shop...

the walls are going to be buried...

 

do yourself a huge favor and surface mount your electric...

 

Edited February 3, 20179 yr by Stick486

13 hours ago, kmealy said:

Was just wondering how the shop-build was going.   Have any photos?

 

 

About the only thing that has happened since it was constructed was the panel has been installed and i put some temporary wiring in for the lights and a few outlets. Then during that warm spell last week, I was able to finish the partition wall...needed it to move on with the wiring. As we hit warm days with this more-screwy-than-normal winter, I'll keep on the wiring. I'd like to have the insulation done buy early April so i can start talking to drywallers. Besides the fact that I am really bad at drywall, the last time I did some (my last shop) it put me in the hospital (literally). I had a torn rotater cuff that I was unaware of, and it got torn a whole lot more while I was wrestling the rock. Not gonna chance it this time, last time was 8' sheets...this time it will be 10'. If I can't find drywallers I may try to find some guys that do this as a side job. Like Stick said: it's shop, not too worried about perfect.

Edited February 3, 20179 yr by Fred W. Hargis Jr

Hey Fred, have Newman come up and do it.  He's retired.