This disk is what I been using for the last few months for all the patterns have come from this stained glass pattern thingy. It says over 100 patterns and you can do them in color or in black and white. These are more realistic than the Glass Eye makers. Not sure where it can be bought but wander around glass products and it might be there. You can put it on the computer permently or like I do is slide it in when I need another pattern to cut out. It needs a home printer and especially one that is a 4 in 1 model which enlarges or reduces...

   Wife bought , I guess, Rapid Resizer, to crop out or to change the sizes and there might be better programs out there now to better suit . This Rapid Resizer is very old for she downloaded it in about 99.

 I use the lined version to glue on the wood and I also print a color version for after I cut out all the pieces, the color version shows me where the pieces fit back in. Then you also need another copy to file away in case someone wants to pay you for another to make and don't forget to add the size you printed out on to your copy but lots of times someone else will want a bigger size or smaller to fit in that exact place on their wall.

    A little ribbing,folks who like to use spiral blades you can forget everything I said here and there is no need to order this disk cause you wouldn't be able to stay on a line anyway, so forget it!! 

 There are people that use a spiral blade on a regular basis, for me I have never been able to get the rhythm of one. The blades seem to really like to follow the soft areas of the wood. 

All I use are spiral blades. FD new 3/0 spirals. It might sound crazy but I can stay on the line better with a spiral than a flat.

So now I am curious Rusty.  Using spiral blades exclusively, you mean to tell me you leave the edges ruff or you never build anything where the edges are supposed to be smooth??

All I have to do is sand the flat sides. Here are some things I cut with spirals.

 

So again, what in the world do you use to sand all those edges.? And does that not take all day on each?

Not too shabby! I like.

John

Great job.

Herb

I don't need to sand the edges.

Rusty I'm not bad mouthing your work for they all look good. But if you use the right blades you don't have to sand the edges at all. They will be very smooth . Sorry my friend but I was just trying to help...

 

  I can see where the spiral blade has its advantages, stone work in the lighthouse, small tight areas. On the pieces with an exposed edge I would prefer a smooth edge that a straight blade would produce. Reverse tooth blades, IMO, leave the smoothest cut with minimal clean up. Again this is personal preference.   

Duck Soup your last sentence seems to contradict the one before it?

 

17 hours ago, Smallpatch said:

Rusty I'm not bad mouthing your work for they all look good. But if you use the right blades you don't have to sand the edges at all. They will be very smooth . Sorry my friend but I was just trying to help...

 

Jesse I know you are not trying to be mean. I guess I just can't come up with the right words to make you understand that I don't need to sand the edges. Even with the spiral blade the edges on my work come out fine and don't need to be sanded.

 

On ‎1‎/‎10‎/‎2017 at 8:11 AM, DuckSoup said:

Reverse tooth blades, IMO, leave the smoothest cut with minimal clean up.

  I guess I may have included RT in a straight blade category. I prefer the up cut of a RT from clean up perspective. Very little sanding, if any, on the sides or back.

I get my images from google....

I type in what I want and always put the word "Drawing" 

at the end. After it loads I click on "Images"