Today I finished the dust "management" on my contractor saw.  I do not have a dust collector system so I needed some sort of management.

 

I built  a simple box drawer to catch the dust from under the saw and used hardboard to block off the back of the saw.  The hardboard was cut to overlap by 2" and screwed into the back of the saw.  Cutouts were made for the belt and the motor hanger.

 

To test things out I made about 30 cuts on 3/4" MDF. The only noticeable discharge was on the table itself.

 

Please see the pictures below for an idea how I did it.

 

I do have my saw connected to the dust collector but usually forget to start up the collector. I used 1/4" plywood on the back, around the motor mount and belt. Instead of fastening the plywood with screws, I recessed rare earth magnets into the plywood and glued them in place with CA glue. When I need to tilt the blade, I just "unstick" the plywood. 

2 minutes ago, lew said:

 When I need to tilt the blade, I just "unstick" the plywood. 

 

Well shoot. I forgot about that requirement. I guess I will be getting the wrench out when I need to do that.

Although, I HATE (yes the H word) to tilt the blade, it's such a pain to get it back square.

 

I had a similar set-up on my Craftsman TS  for closing the back of the saw, I used  magnetic sign material that  sign makers use for truck signs. For cuts when tilting the blade I simply pulled the sign material away.

If you have a shop wet/dry vac, you might consider including an attachment to the drawer  in the box you built below the saw to attach the vac hose. This may help pull a bit more of the fine dust down thru the top of the saw.  Just  an idea. Because of the opening behind the saw, it might not be very effective.

1 minute ago, It Was Al B said:

If you have a shop wet/dry vac, you might consider including an attachment to the drawer  in the box you built below the saw to attach the vac hose. This may help pull a bit more of the fine dust down thru the top of the saw.  Just  an idea. Because of the opening behind the saw, it might not be very effective.

 

I do have a shop vac and a cyclone bucket, I also got an attachment for the drawer but it doesn't fit my vac hose. I am connuttering how to make it work.

The idea is to attach the hose attachment to the back of the drawer and cut a corresponding hole in the back of the cabinet to hook up the hose.

Good solution. When I did mine I used one sheet metal screw in each half of the back pieces, adnd still found that unhandy...wish i had used some magnets. Even so, I found I kept forgetting to remove the baffles before I tilted the blade; I wound up putting a large yellow label on the front of the saw that read "remove baffles before tilt". Then I only forgot to remove it about 1/2 the time.

I might make a modification to mine so it can stay on for all operations. I am thinking about cutting up a broom and using it to block the openings an still allow the saw to work throughout its operation.

 

13 hours ago, ACR_SCOUT said:

I HATE (yes the H word) to tilt the blade, it's such a pain to get it back square.

Me Too!

 

On the front of my saw I use those refrigerator magnet calendar (about 3 x 6") and stick it over the arced slot. That helps when directing the vacuum air down thru the blade slot instead of the opening.

Edited December 31, 20169 yr by lew

I've had a Contractor's table saw for quite a few years, and I like it so much that I have two of them, a 9" and a 10". A few years ago I put a lot of thought in how to give them the best dust collection that I could and still be user friendly. It can be used with a dust collector, or a shop vac with the right adapter. I left the back of the saw partially open so that I would not have to do anything before tilting the blade, plus there has to be an opening somewhere to bring air in to feed the DC or shop vac. I sometimes use a refrigerator magnet over the front bevel slot, and I put closed cell foam in between the top of the cabinet and the cast iron top. Now all the air needed to feed dust collection comes in from the back, and reduces the chance of dust escaping out the back. https://sites.google.com/site/deltacontractorstablesaw/

40 minutes ago, CharlieL said:

I've had a Contractor's table saw for quite a few years, and I like it so much that I have two of them, a 9" and a 10". A few years ago I put a lot of thought in how to give them the best dust collection that I could and still be user friendly. It can be used with a dust collector, or a shop vac with the right adapter. I left the back of the saw partially open so that I would not have to do anything before tilting the blade, plus there has to be an opening somewhere to bring air in to feed the DC or shop vac. I sometimes use a refrigerator magnet over the front bevel slot, and I put closed cell foam in between the top of the cabinet and the cast iron top. Now all the air needed to feed dust collection comes in from the back, and reduces the chance of dust escaping out the back. https://sites.google.com/site/deltacontractorstablesaw/

Wonderful design theory's and practice Charlie, and thanks for the link to your shop! I love that ol Delta surface planer you have there.

Thankyou John. American made machinery and tools, pretty tough to beat.

8 minutes ago, CharlieL said:

Thankyou John. American made machinery and tools, pretty tough to beat.

American made is good Charlie.

I try when I can, but in the spirit of full disclosure, I gots me share of Taiwanese in my shop too. I have not purchased a machine in years, but when I do in the future, I'll be looking mainly in old machinery market for US Made, one of my goals for my shop is to have old American machinery throughout for the machines that I do need.