Checked switch for loose connections, cord plugged into a wall socket that I know works, not binding, capacitor doesn't smell. It worked fine until I reinstalled it after making repair to elevation gears on Powermatic 65 table saw. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Testing Motor Capacitors.pdf

Electric Motor Troubleshooting.pdf

Electric Motor Troubleshooting (Polyphase).pdf

Diagnosing Electric Power Tools 101.pdf

Thanks Stick! Used a ohm meter to check start capacitor, and it checked out as being good. The motor is a 220v, but the start capacitor has writing on the side that says it is a 110v. Could this have been changed in the past? If so, should I go ahead and change it out? Another possibility I found is that the motor has points and they might be stuck. If it has stuck points, I am told that I can take fine sandpaper and clean them up is not totally destroyed. Any ideas on these possibilities?

1 hour ago, oldwoodie said:

Any ideas on these possibilities?

Maybe I missed it it another post so forgive me for asking some obvious questions...

You note the motor is a 220v (assume from tag??)

(1) is the motor correctly wired for 220V? Wired for 220 plugged into 110V will cause motor to only hum & not rotate.

(2) is it being plugged in to a 220V outlet; if so have you verified you have 220V and not 110 (e.g. one leg of the breaker has failed)

(3) is it a single or dual capacitor motor? Typically (although not always if 1HP or less) 220V motors would be dual capacitor

You note it worked before you R&R'd motor

(1) same outlet?

(2) same cord? plug end?

(3) were wires removed from motor or switch to remove motor for repairs? If so, are they reinstalled in the exact positions as prior?

You noted cord plugged into a known good outlet

(1) for clarification, is the motor direct wired or does the motor plug into a receptacle on the saw that is switched; assuming switched as noted, did you verify both legs of the cord used as 220V available?

(2) have you verified the voltage from the receptacle to the switch interruption for 220V?

(3) if #2 above = yes, have you verified voltage from swithc interruption to motor/capacitor as 220v available

With all due respect, if it worked before, the likelihood of motor/capacitor just failing during R&R, while remotely possible, is highly unlikely...I suppose one conductor wire could have broken internally (no visible exterior break) thus only allowing 1/2 of the 220 leg to the motor; again possible but not likely

Something else has changed as a result of the elevation repair

For me, as a more dominant visual learner, pictures would greatly improve this diagnostic journey...