kmealy Posted November 15, 2016 Report Posted November 15, 2016 On my intermediate to-do list is a work table. I'd use this for tasks such as assembly, glue-ups, routing, sanding, nailing, screwing, dry fitting, drilling, sharpening, pocket holes, etc. I have a European cabinet maker's workbench (Tage Frid design +-) so don't need for hand work like planing, scraping, or sawing. Also lower would work OK for many assemblies, I'd probably build table saw height (~36")to use as work surface and a potential infeed table when needed. My initial thoughts are: * does not need to be on casters or knock-down, fold-up * 3x5 to 4x6 top surface, TBD. I have an old office desk top and a piece of parquet floor from a gym that I might use as a top, but would also be open to torsion box construction * not really enthralled with Ron Paulk's bench, just does not thrill me * Thinking of getting some SYP 2x10's and ripping off the edges to get quarter-sawn 2x4s and throwing away the pith, laminating them up for the legs, and making half-lap joints that are carriage bolted and glued together. * Does not need to have drawer-storage below it, but maybe some type of storage? Quote
HandyDan Posted November 15, 2016 Report Posted November 15, 2016 I have a metal desk with a with a 32"x80" veneered solid wood door for the top. Very flat very nice. Quote
steven newman Posted November 15, 2016 Report Posted November 15, 2016 Have had one or two, when I had more room. Cruise the curbs right before trash is picked up. Merely need a top's top, and you can add whatever legs you want....last one I found is sitting on a pair of sawhorses. I see one or two a week up around here....BTW: City of Bellefontaine, OH charges them $15-25 to haul them away......If YOU pick them up, they are free. They have to buy a tag to have the city haul them. Most don't buy one. They just sit them out by the curb, wanting someone to grab it. Quote
Stick486 Posted November 15, 2016 Report Posted November 15, 2016 5 hours ago, kmealy said: My initial thoughts are: * does not need to be on casters or knock-down, fold-up * 3x5 to 4x6 top surface, TBD. I have an old office desk top and a piece of parquet floor from a gym that I might use as a top, but would also be open to torsion box construction * not really enthralled with Ron Paulk's bench, just does not thrill me * Thinking of getting some SYP 2x10's and ripping off the edges to get quarter-sawn 2x4s and throwing away the pith, laminating them up for the legs, and making half-lap joints that are carriage bolted and glued together. * Does not need to have drawer-storage below it, but maybe some type of storage? casters and KD.. done that... once built it seems you never move it but in only the smallest of shops... 3x5 too small... 4x6 too big on the 4' ... 32'' (75~80% of the time) w/ a drop leaf or two... 6~8'' wide leaf(s) on the long side...... 32/34'' is a great work across width... over the years 7' worked out to be a great length... go less if you like and add drop leaf(s)... torsion box can be made seriously flat and strong... QS 4x4 have been my preference (tighter growth rings but tougher to find) but your idea of gluing up legs is great... solid legs and a top end blind/half lap joint to carry the frame... who knows.. you may be able to find what you need in a bunk of 2x4's... new growth SYP, in my book, splits/moves too easily... spruce/WW/DF in A2+ would be a better choice... half lap... not sure what you intend... glue and deck screws to face laminate a pair of 2x's together.. consider TimberLok or GRK's screws for the assembly.. these screws are shear rated, designed to limit splitting, hold better than deck, very corrosion resistant, two styles of heads that don't cam out and will give you KD... cheaper than bolts too... Quote
Fred W. Hargis Jr Posted November 15, 2016 Report Posted November 15, 2016 I agree with Stick on the size: 3x5 too small, and 4x6 too large on the 4'. I keep thinking maybe 3x 6.5 or so might be optimal, but could be persuaded that 3x6 is good. My inclination would be torsion box, unless it will see hammering and other stuff like that. If the material you have is perfectly flat and has stayed that way for a while, there's really no reason to not use it. I like your idea of the legs from the 2 x10's, and would probably be my choice as well. That said, should you decide to go KD, a simple plywood frame with the plywood on edge works pretty well, though it makes storage a little tougher to figure out. Quote
Ron Dudelston Posted November 15, 2016 Report Posted November 15, 2016 One thing to consider. When you build your table, consider a laminate top. The ability to scrape dried glue from the top is a real plus. My table has locking casters and is about 42 X 60 with drawers on one end. Underneath is a 4 gallon compressor for nailing. Works like a charm. kmealy 1 Quote
scarletjim Posted November 15, 2016 Report Posted November 15, 2016 Do you also need an outfeed table for your table saw? If so, you might want to consider this aspect as you plan your work table so it can serve double duty. I did this and made mine based on the table saw size for length. The width was sized so that in cutting an 8' long panel or board, it would stay on the table after passing the saw blade. My table has a torsion box construction with a sacrificial layer of 3/16" hardboard. The table is trimmed with 8/4 hard maple. I have a shelf underneath it to store things I use at the table. Also, consider adding dog holes for hold fasts and dogs. I adapted it from a Wordsmith design. Quote
kmealy Posted November 15, 2016 Author Report Posted November 15, 2016 Table saw outfeed will probably be a different project. Currently, I have a roll-around cart whose top is made from a sink-cutout. I had a "battleship desk" in my prior shop. Got it from the phone co. 35 years ago when they went to cubicles. Too big and heavy to move, I thought, so I disassembled and scrapped it. In retrospect, I probably should have moved it. It was on a skid with casters and I moved it some in my too-small shop. Nice drawers for hardware storage and kneehole held some sandpaper boxes. And it did have a laminate slip over top. The half-lap I was thinking of looks sort of like this There were times when the 30" x 60" top was just not big enough, including the time when the side of a tall dresser fell and broke my toe. I have a pretty long reach so I'm not sure 48" wide would be a problem, since I would have access from both sides. HARO50 1 Quote
John Morris Posted November 15, 2016 Report Posted November 15, 2016 I love my aircraft carrier sized bench for general everyday work. 48" x 84" top. Two layers of 3/4" MDF topped with 1/4" Masonite that can be swapped out when it gets too beat. It also serves as my out feed for table saw. The entire cabinet it sits on is closed storage with 4 doors. kmealy and steven newman 2 Quote
Stick486 Posted November 15, 2016 Report Posted November 15, 2016 4 hours ago, kmealy said: The half-lap I was thinking of looks sort of like this my mind's eye was seeing that... good way to go... I just did it w/ 4x4's and cut dadoes... do yourself a favor and add an intermediate set of legs to negate ''bouncing'' form hammering... also.. give yourself ample ''overhang'' of the top to facilitate clamping... 4 hours ago, kmealy said: There were times when the 30" x 60" top was just not big enough, including the time when the side of a tall dresser fell and broke my toe. I have a pretty long reach so I'm not sure 48" wide would be a problem, since I would have access from both sides. you and I are about the same size... 6'5'' I have a 37'' arm length and 48'' is too wide for comfort unless the table top is low... a work table that's too low will make your back hate you.... put comfort at the top of your list and you will get more done easier... my fix was a suitable height (I like 38'') and drop leafs for the odd sized piece of work... think work piece center to the table... do you have enough/plenty of room left over on the table for the tools you are using... back to the drop leafs .... FWIW.. the drop leafs on my table were a fix and not designed in,,, used this style of bracket in overkill strength.... Quote
kmealy Posted November 16, 2016 Author Report Posted November 16, 2016 2 hours ago, Stick486 said: you and I are about the same size... 6'5'' I have a 37'' arm length and 48'' is too wide for comfort unless the table top is low... a work table that's too low will make your back hate you.... put comfort at the top of your list and you will get more done easier... my fix was a suitable height (I like 38'') and drop leafs for the odd sized piece of work... think work piece center to the table... do you have enough/plenty of room left over on the table for the tools you are using... Yes, my first workbench I inherited from a prior tenant who left it in an apartment. When I got to make my own a few years later, I made it about 3" higher than plan. I could immediately tell the difference in how my back felt. My table saw too, is raised up about 5" and everyone else's just seems way too low. So, would 40" be a good compromise? steven newman 1 Quote
Stick486 Posted November 16, 2016 Report Posted November 16, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, kmealy said: So, would 40" be a good compromise? yes.... I tried to cover all bases more than once... couldn't do it.. what worked today was a pain tomorrow... too wide and you make a lot of trips around the table because of reach.. too narrow and stuff doesn't fit like your dresser...... drop leafs were the best move I ever made... solved a lot of issues... so easy to do.. something to consider.... we may be the same height but I only have a 30'' inseam.... our MMV (Mileage May Vary) because of this... any way to do a rough mock up you can use on a project or two... Edited November 16, 2016 by Stick486 HARO50 1 Quote
kmealy Posted November 16, 2016 Author Report Posted November 16, 2016 Stick, can you post some photos of your bench? Quote
Stick486 Posted November 16, 2016 Report Posted November 16, 2016 40 minutes ago, kmealy said: Stick, can you post some photos of your bench? the one we are talking about... no... it's in a boy's/girl's VoTech school now... Quote
Kevin Beitz Posted November 15, 2019 Report Posted November 15, 2019 I put class 3 hitches on most all my work benches. This way I can slide in whatever tool I'm using at the time. When finished I pull out the tool and slide it under the bench... p_toad 1 Quote
tomp Posted November 16, 2019 Report Posted November 16, 2019 I made mine adjustable in height - a little higher than the table saw on the max, and low enough to sit on my favorite 5 gallon bucket at the low end. Bought an RV scissor jack from HF, works perfectly to raise and lower the table. The upper and lower frames are built with2x4's that were trimmed and squared, assembled with pocket screws and glue, and the upper legs are two strips of 3/4" ply, joined at 90° to wrap around the lower legs and slotted for the clamping bolts that hold it at the selected height. The top is two layers of 3/4" plywood, edged with poplar and covered with plastic laminate for easy clean-up - I've since added a Kreg base plate for a clamp at each end. I built the top with an overhang all round so I could clamp to the top if needed as I didn't want t-tracks in it.. And I added cabinets underneath to store all the little tools and supplies that need to be handy. It's on retractable casters (Rockler) as it gets moved from the end of the TS to the open space that becomes available when I put the Gold Wing outside. If I could do it again, and had more room, I'd make the top larger - limited to about 32" wide x 36" long - but I can always fall back on (2) sawhorses, (2) 2x4's and a piece of plywood if I really need a larger top. Because of the flexibility, the adjustable height was well worth the extra work involved. p_toad and JimM 2 Quote
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