Powermatic 65: In order to remove the stripped elevation part on trunnion, it looks like the elevation wheel is pressed onto a shaft that has two flat sides. I removed the set screw, but there's not much room to tap on back of wheel or to use a air hammer to get it off. I am assuming that the wheel is pushed or pressed on, so how am I going to remove it?

I have removed the motor, and I will have to remove the bolts that holds the top onto the cabinet. I am hoping that the threads are not going to be too worn on the rest of the trunnion

Thanks

Old Woodie

Edited November 9, 20169 yr by oldwoodie
Misspelled word

Can you get or make some sort of gear puller? If the wheel is pot metal, be careful  doesn't take much to break them.

Herb

What Herb said.  It has a woodruff key and is probably just tight on the shaft but not pressed on.  Maybe soak it a little with penetrating fluid.

WD 40. Let it set a few hours. You can probably fit a couple of  wedges between the wheel and the cabinet housing, then tap the wedges lightly. This should help free the wheel. As mentioned above, use caution so you don't break the wheel.

I believe the wheel is probably steel and not pot metal. I used to have a steering wheel puller that might work, if not, I will try to make one that will work. Wonder if I could use a propane torch to heat it up? I don't think the cabinet is strong enough to withstand using wedges to force it off the shaft though. It probably would bend the cabinet before the wheel would budge. Thanks!

I'm not sure what the flame temp of propane is. If the wheel happened to be aluminum,would the flame get it hot enough to melt the aluminum. Aluminum melts at 1221 degrees and doesn't change color before suddenly falling away.

You probably could use a pair (one top and one bottom) of wedges if you tape a piece of plywood across where you want to put the wedges...long wood wedges from a piece of 2x4 tapped in from each side.

 

Aluminum..yeah; it just melts to a puddle ...   fun!

 

The alternative of lubricant may or may not help, but trying to turn wheel while the set screw is out and only the key is holding it might loosen it enough to pull off.   Using a puller assumes the middle of the wheel is open..yes?

I was just thinking about how I will repair the gears that are worn down, and has anyone had experience in this type of repair? It has been suggested that I can drill and tap holes and install bolts, grind them to fit the other teeth. Possibly brazing them in place. I had never even thought of doing that. What is your opinion? Thanks!

I can't say that this won't work,but, I do have some reservations. First, drilling and tapping a hole large enough to install a bolt may weaken the casting. Second, the metal that bolts are made of is quite malleable and, once shaped, the gear could bend when pressure is applied to it . I'm betting that the truneon is cast steel. Cast iron would likely have been used in an older machine. My first choice for repairing would be TIG welding. Second option would be brazing. A good TIG welder can almost shape the tooth while welding, leaving minimal filing and/or grinding to finalize the shape.

Well, after several days of lubing the shaft, I found a crankshaft removal tool that I used back years ago when I ran an air cooled VW garage. The elevation wheel came right off when I used a cordless impact wrench on it. Now I am having trouble getting the three belts back onto the trunnion. Any suggestions on how to keep the belts in the motor grooves when I am trying to get them installed? I can force them on, but they keep coming out of the motor pulley grooves. It is very difficult to see, even with a light and mirror. Thanks!