That's 25 NASCAR laps I decided to put a pattern on some wood and start on yet another clock.

  I wanted to finish cutting the carvings out so the next day or two I could start grooming the carvings.

  When I cut the outline of the clock I usually have already attached the backer board so the outside of both pieces will match like they were cut at the same time. Whups in my haste I didn't want to miss too many laps, I forgot the attach both pieces together with screws. Wow, that little mistake will cost me time. I had already cut the carving pieces away from the board when I realized I screwed up. this is how I attached the two pieces together so I could trace around the outside then cut the bottom board, which is particle board or whats it called.  But all the carving pieces are already cut loose. And will make it hard to hold all the pieces still while tracing around them. 

None of these edges will have to be sanded for the blade will make the wood shiny smooth.

I don't own any woodworking clamps I would use over the

4 welding clamps to hold both exactly while I turn them over and counter sink both boards together.

 Another thing, 

To see if you are not pushing sideways while cutting the outside pieces. Check to see if you can stand the big piece on the side where the scroll saw cut pieces away also if you can slide the piece on top out both directions, out the top and then out the bottom, then yes you held the blade straight up and down while sawing. The piece to be removed has to have some ins and outs for you to tell.

 This clock won't be exactly like any other I have built, and it also it didn't match any I just drew up. I go from something ruff to graph paper to be a little more exact before gluing to a board.

  Whup, which way to go? I think that tells me to  check which road to go down.

  Guys I don't mean no ill will, but using a spiral blade sure won't give anyone any benefit when it comes time to having to follow a line when needed..

   When I had to trace around the bottom board and be reasonable accurate, I switched to a stiffer blade in a larger number so I could crank up the tension so I could spin the wood around and stay on the line. This way the blade won't give back and forth like a really fine blade will do because less tension has to be used. And in return I got an almost accurate match to the top board...

 

What you did get done looks fantastic.

Really nice Jess, the work and the tutorial,

Cal

Jess - along with showing us what you are doing, you have also given us some great tips and tricks.  Will be awaiting to see the finished project.

 

Thanks again