My back decking, pool decking and front decking are all cedar so I've not worried about cupping, etc...

 

My brother's deck (replaced twice), professionally done (nail gun and all), has cracked, cupped, twisted, splintered and otherwise is "folded, stapled and mutilated"...

 

The dozen or so I have built for others have been PT wood for decking and most were painted or stained.  Some boards have cupped, some have crowned, some have splintered/cracked, pealed, etc... but not in any consistent manner (or at least not a pattern that I can pick out).

 

My preferred install has always been "bark up" for decking or outside steps...apparently the debate continues and appears that science and fact don't have anything to do with each other.

 

Depending on whose article you read you get "bark up always", "bard down always" and "it depends" on any number of variables...close to the ground or up in the air, moisture content above/below some number, drying process bottom side versus top side, less than/greater than 25% sun, dried after PT or not and how...ad nauseum...  Interesting reading but I'd have to shoot myself if I wanted to know so much about PT wood...(no offense intended)

 

I need to replace all the deck boards (16'x24') for a very close friend.  Boards run long way on the 16' side.  2x's will be used to accommodate leveling with the pool capping...no Trex or equivalent...BORG will be the source...deck will be painted after some drying time (Spring)... I'm also a hammer/nail guy but screws may be better (deck will be painted).  I love my 22oz'er, especially when the head of the nail makes a clean cut into the board and the top of the head stops right at the surface of the board (I digress) ...  The framing is good and dry, no rot, so I'm thinking 3" - 3 1/2" galvanized should hold.  I'm thinking 1/8" spacing between boards.

 

Objective...install boards such that there will be no cupping to collect water or stub toes...crowning okay to drain off water

 

Some questions...
1. bark up or bark down...? (this is the biggie I think)
2. 2x6's or 2x8's (which will be more stable...forget the looks) ...?  Or should I consider 2x4's...?
3. do it before the winter or after (New York)...?
4. how long to dry before painting (Restore 2x/4x type of product) ...?
5. better source for the wood than HD/Lowes...?
6. 3" nails ok or go for 3 1/2"  (or are ya gonna tell me Deckmates)

 

...and then there's a school of thought not to use PT because the deck is off the ground by 4 feet...CHEEEZZZ...

 

s'all for now...thanks in advance...

For decking, I use hand picked BORG redwood on PT framework. Fasteners are Trex Hideaway Universal Hidden Fastener System. It's a bit more work due to needing to groove the board edges, but, it's clean and very secure. 

Crown up, always.

Edited October 25, 20169 yr by Gene Howe

 

14 minutes ago, Nickp said:

1. bark up or bark down...? (this is the biggie I think)
2. 2x6's or 2x8's (which will be more stable...forget the looks) ...?  Or should I consider 2x4's...?
3. do it before the winter or after (New York)...?
4. how long to dry before painting (Restore 2x/4x type of product) ...?
5. better source for the wood than HD/Lowes...?
6. 3" nails ok or go for 3 1/2"  (or are ya gonna tell me Deckmates)

 

...and then there's a school of thought not to use PT because the deck is off the ground by 4 feet...CHEEEZZZ...

 

 

1... pick your poison..

 

 

2. 2x6's or 2x8's (which will be more stable...forget the looks) ...?  Or should I consider 2x4's...?

2x6 will be the trade off of a 2x8 that has excessive mo9vement and a 2x4 that hasn't enough meat to it and will readily split...

3. do it before the winter or after (New York)...?

anytime is fine as long as you plan on and comp for MC...

hold up on frozen wood...

4. how long to dry before painting (Restore 2x/4x type of product) ...?

you are asking the wrong department...

5. better source for the wood than HD/Lowes...?

who do you have in your neck of the woods...

go to the BB's and tear down the bundles and be picky... wood is wood if you do well selecting it...

6. 3" nails ok or go for 3 1/2"  (or are ya gonna tell me Deckmates)

because of your seasons, 3'' screws, as long as they are not made in china...

 

...and then there's a school of thought not to use PT because the deck is off the ground by 4 feet...CHEEEZZZ...

skip the PT...

can you get redwood???

 

 

Go with the composite decking.  Once and done.  No future maintenance other than washing.

4 minutes ago, HandyDan said:

Go with the composite decking.  Once and done.  No future maintenance other than washing.

except for Trex...

Before we elected Redwood, we visited several professionally installed composite decking jobs. The oldest ones were 5 years old. All had dips between the 16" OC joists. Which led me to conclude that 12" spacing was needed. For our 25X40 deck, that seemed like an intolerable waste of $$ in extra PT joists. 

In addition, where the ends of the composite was exposed to the sun, there was visible deterioration.

Then we compared costs. Redwood was a winner all the way.

I would strongly urge anyone considering composite decking, to take the time to inspect a number of installs in their area. Check not only construction details and appearance, but brands, too. 

Edited October 25, 20169 yr by Gene Howe

From my experience, I used 5/4 x 6 premium deck boards, 16" oc bark up.  The deck has outlasted the pool - which now serves as a garden!

I spaced the boards by using an 8 penny nail.  Wished I had placed them down with no space.  As they dried the gaps really opened up.

Cal

I believe a key to minimizing wood movement is to paint all surfaces of the wood. Most people don't bother to paint the underside of decks. This leaves the wood exposed to the moisture changes which causes  swelling and shrinking of the wood grain.