Man brought an antique folding chair that has a cracked seat at the hinge. Since it is mahogany, I was thinking that I could drill the hinge hole out and glue in a mahogany dowel. The dowel would not be seen since the side will cover it up. What is your thoughts on this? Thanks in advance!

sounds like a plan...

Can't see what you're talking about.  Picture would be nice.

6 hours ago, HandyDan said:

Can't see what you're talking about.  Picture would be nice.

striped screw repair were the screw hole starred and the ROCKER seat cracked on the folding chair...

got it now...

Unless the hinge hole is in the crack, I think what you want to do will work well. I've repaired a few strip screws this way. Actually, even if it is in the crack, a large enough dowel might be just what you need to hold it together.

Edited October 18, 20169 yr by Fred W. Hargis, Jr

Quote

What I decided: The hole is not stripped since it had a pin about 2" long and bradded at tip. I drilled a large hole in it, glued a mahogany dowel in the hole. Today, I will glue a piece of mahogany underneath the seat on both sides. I will sand down to the wood, glue and screw the boards which are 2x7. By doing this, it will strengthen the cracked side and prevent the same thing from happening on the other side; it will look like it was that way from the mfg. Glue has allowed the seat to separate also. I think I will use my Kreg on that to draw it back together. Thanks again for you suggestions, etc. God bless.

 

On ‎10‎/‎18‎/‎2016 at 6:35 AM, Stick486 said:

striped screw repair were the screw hole starred and the ROCKER seat cracked on the folding chair...

got it now...

 

Turns out it was quite a bit more involved than that.  Can't see it can't fix it.  Right?

Repair a crack with a dowel?  Is it a small split opened up by a screw in the hinge?  You plan would most likely work.   I'll say this about cracks in wood: It's really really hard to tell when the wood has stopped separating and the crack has ended.

When I'm being stingy with dried lumber with end checks I'll cut off as much as I think I need to and then take the barest of sliver of a slice so I can literally see light through it and hold that up to a lamp and stress it where the crack ought to be.

 

It might be the better plan to saw the crack out along the grain ( assuming the crack runs with the grains and put a piece in.

 

In the alternate you might use a large hypodermic syringe  and shoot it with a good epoxy like the kind they mount golf club heads.  This stuff is supposed to be way stronger than even JB weld http://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-high-strength-epoxy/p/EPX1/?cn=4&bhcd2=1257712462

 

Belxona is supposed to be a lot stronger too