September 20, 20169 yr In a couple of what seems like my near-daily trip to Lowe's recently, I've seen a couple of new products. 1. A all-in-one stain and finish from Minwax FOR FLOORS. I can't imagine using a product like this (maybe just Polyshades in disguise) on a floor. 2. Valspar "Paint for Furniture" Hmmm. It seems to be one of the few oil-based paints that Lowe's is carrying these days. We all know (don't we) that you don't want to use inexpensive acrylic finish on furniture because of "blocking" (things sticking to it or adjoining surfaces gluing themselves togethere), but because of VOC restrictions, most places just quit carrying oil-based paint. 3. Varnish. Desperately trying to find some varnish that ain't Minwax Poly. Bit my tongue and just bought a quart for an off-project. Thankfully, no one there recognized me.
September 20, 20169 yr 14 hours ago, kmealy said: 3. Varnish. Desperately trying to find some varnish that ain't Minwax Poly. Bit my tongue and just bought a quart for an off-project. Thankfully, no one there recognized me. "The Unknown Craftsman"; brings back memories of the Gong Show and the Unknown Comic I've always had good luck with Valspar products...back in the day, their poly was about all I ever used. In the the "Emerald City" there is an Ace Hardware that still carries store brand and Valspar poly; of course they have Minwax too for the "discerning craftsman."
September 20, 20169 yr Author For about 8 years, I was a franchisee of Valspar. So I got to know many of their products. But with the Mergers and Acquisitions of the finish manufacturers (only about a handful of big guys own nearly all the brands), it's hard to tell what happened. I used to love Guardsman's Warm Brown Glaze. But Lilly bought Guardsman, then Valspar bought Lilly, then Sherwin-Williams bought Valspar. (S-W also bought Minwax a few years ago). Sometimes they let the brands operate independently, sometimes not. Sadly, Warm Brown is gone, but a good Valspar paint store might have the formula in the back room and can mix some up for you, as close as they can get with the current Glaze Base.
September 20, 20169 yr I don't remember the specific product name now, but between my dad & I, we used lots & lots (did I say lots?) of Valspar poly for hardwood floors and lots of gallons of the Porch/Deck paint. Great durability from both products. Those specific formulas are probably why I have about 65% hearing loss in my right ear, have to wear glasses with bi-focals, have two bad knees, and other maladies...probably should contact a lawyer...
September 21, 20169 yr Except for ice cream and cereal, I use McCklosky's Man O War on everything. It's good mixed with BLO or, for different flavors, try Watco with it. My local Ace carries it. Edited September 21, 20169 yr by Gene Howe
September 21, 20169 yr 1 hour ago, Gene Howe said: Except for ice cream and cereal, I use McCklosky's Man O War on everything. What about on hot dogs and hamburgers?
September 21, 20169 yr 2 minutes ago, Chips N Dust said: What about on hot dogs and hamburgers? Well, "everything" might have been a ssliiighht exaggeration..... It might help the flavor of rutabagas and turnips, though.
September 21, 20169 yr Author 3 hours ago, Gene Howe said: Except for ice cream and cereal, I use McCklosky's Man O War on everything. It's good mixed with BLO or, for different flavors, try Watco with it. My local Ace carries it. By the name "spar," one can conclude it's a long-oil varnish. I've seen a few custom-built desk/workstations where there were pen impressions all over. When questioning the contractor, they usually find half a can of Helmsman sitting in the closet somewhere. Not the appropriate finish for something that will see this type of usage as it stays softer and flexible. By mixing with BLO or Watco (which is itself an oil-varnish blend, heavy on the oil, about 2x as much as varnish), you are creating an oil-varnish blend. Normally you do not want to build too much of a film thickness with this (or it will end up even softer). http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use I did a job for a lady that had bought a lot of teak furniture when she lived in Indonesia. She had faithfully "teak oiled" it annually and it looked like poo. Soft sticky finish that would leave fingerprints, full of lint.. I stripped it all off and refinished it. When I returned it, she asked, "How often should I teak oil it?" I told her to throw it away, she would not need to ever oil it again. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/teak-oil-oil-doesnt-exist
September 22, 20169 yr Author OK, I've seen several posts now about BLO and varnish. Not to insult anyone, but when I teach finishing class, I start of telling them that my objective is to keep them from reaching for the same old can of finish for all jobs (and usually grab that prop can of Minwax Poly). This is where I was when I started out -- I found something that worked and I liked the look of and used it for everything. As I learned more and became familiar with more products and understood the pros and cons of each finish type, I came to learn that one size does not fit all. What you want for a desk top that is going to be used 40-60 hours a week shuffling papers, computer keyboard and mouse, phone, pens, etc. is not necessarily the same as what you might want for a clock that sits on a wall, or a kitchen cabinet, or a hall table, or something of pickled oak, or dark mahogany, or pine. I did a table repair refinish job for a guy a number of years ago. He grabbed me and took me out to his carriage house where his shop was. He turned bowls, and more bowls, and more bowls. He opened up a cabinet and showed me a stockpile of about a dozen cans of "Minwax Wipe-On Poly." He went on to say that a recent article (Fine Woodworking) showed it was "the best wipe-on finish." Never mind it was a terribly flawed article (ignore can directions, ignore general chemistry of products, make your own wipe on from something not meant to be wiped on, and perhaps even skew the criteria to select the winner in advance), REALLY you need a poly for a bowl that the most wear-and-tear it's going to see is an occasional dust cloth? My predecessor at WOOD forums derisively called it "Polyoneverything." I'm not so insulting,but hate to see it used so often when not appropriate (just look at the finish section of your average big box store).
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