I'm in the middle of helping with a church chapel remodel.   The architect has specified  material for this wainscoting.   The chair rail and base rail will be rabbetted 1x6 oak strips.   The wainscot itself is a tambour that's oak faced with 1/8" slots every 3/4" and it's oak veneer over MDF over what is bascially a cardboard backer that allow it to be just rolled up.

 

We (the crew) are furniture guys and not finish carpenters.   What is a good way to attach the above to the walls, 3 of which are painted concrete blocks.  We are not comfortable with just slapping up some construction adhesive and hoping it holds.

 

Is there a better solution than flat-head Tapcon screws that will be then plugged and filled?

3/16'' tapcons (1'' plus material thickness) and mastic for the chair rail and base or T nails... practice installation..

using mastic on the molding means fewer tapcons...

I use a Bulldog and a drive tool so that they don't over torque...

panel mastic for the wainscot...

mastic.. look to an FRP/MC-1 type.. you may have to flash the mastic.. water base is iffy stuff and solvent base is way more gooder but beware of the VOC...

use talc in your chalk lines.. not colored chalk..

don't forget your roller to roll out the panels.. don't roller too hard or the block will telegraph through... wider is better w/ a user friendly handle...

have on hand redundant assorted notched trowels sizes (widths/lengths) from putty knife to 6~16'' trowels...

the more you ''lay'' the trowel over the smaller the notch becomes... plan for this....

latex. nitrile or PVC gloves... which ever the mastic doesn't eat...

don't work too far ahead of yourself.... have more help than you think you need..

detail somebuddy to clean up the ''ooops'' and tools as you go...  don't clean later.. clean now...

plan your plan of attack...

 

I've got some reading to do

- T-nails

- Bulldog

-  FRP/MC-1 type.

- flash the mastic

 

Thanks, though

Hey Keith, I would not have any problem at all using mastic or an FRP (Fiber Glass Re-Inforced Paneling, need to add that to our acronym directory) adhesive. Use a block sealant first, then spread the adhesive just like you would for any other wall paneling, and have at it, IMHO. Then as you guys already deduced, small countersunk Tapcons for the chair rail and base.

You could drill the chair rail for the pocket screws then use the equivalent sized tapcons and then use the inserts to fill the void if necessary.

 

7 hours ago, kmealy said:

I've got some reading to do

- T-nails

- Bulldog

-  FRP/MC-1 type.

- flash the mastic

 

Thanks, though

- T-nails - masonry nails, framing nailer driven...

- Bulldog - Bulldog + Drive accessory ...

-  FRP/MC-1 type - Tremco, Bostik, Franklin, Titebond, all very good brands..

- flash the mastic -

apply mastic to the wall...

install sheet goods...

lightly roller sheet goods...

tip sheet goods away from the wall...

wait 20~30 seconds...

reinstall sheet..

re-roller the sheet..

you just did a modified contact adhesive bonding..

keep in mind that this makes the mastic super tacky....

 

the roller.. a better style to use...

 

Edited September 16, 20169 yr by Stick486

@kmealy

 

any loose, bubbled/blistered or flaky paint on the block has to be addressed/removed and the blocked sealed 1st...

same for any calcium build ups...

Edited September 16, 20169 yr by Stick486