September 1, 20169 yr This is a project that I worked on last summer and this one resides in my user pile now. I take full responsibility for not looking as closely at the condition of this old roundy before I dropped the cash. Upon further inspection, and, as the pictures show, the edge of the frog was broken. Although not a completely debilitating break, it did render the lateral lever useless. Out of pure luck, the pieces had not been lost and were held there by the yarn from the price tag so I figured I was out nothing to attempt a repair. iI bevelled the edges of the break on both parts and took them to the torch where I attempted to braze cast iron for the first time since I learned how in high school shop class 20 seconds mething years ago. To my surprise, I got pretty good flow using flux covered brazing rod and got a pretty good hold. From there, I was able to trim the excess brass with a mill cutter in my drill press. I used JB Weld to fill any voids and flattened the surfaces with sandpaper on my marble slab. I was nervous to hammer the rivet for the lateral lever but it went OK as well. I cleaned and painted the body and it turned out OK. The lateral functions as it should and everthing fits pretty well. I am, of course, watching for a frog that I want to afford for this plane but this will fit the bill for now. I just wish that the sole didnt have the chips in the toe but oh well! Edited November 21, 20178 yr by Ron Dudelston tags added
September 1, 20169 yr Great job, Brent! Your a man after my own heart. These old irons deserved to be resurrected.
September 1, 20169 yr nice recovery Brent.. when you repainted did you Japan it or do something else...
September 1, 20169 yr Author 5 hours ago, Stick486 said: nice recovery Brent.. when you repainted did you Japan it or do something else... I used Plastikote engine enamel. I read about this on one of the forums as giving good results and have used it on several planes with good success. If I recall correctly, I used three coats and there are some specific re-coat instruction on the can that must be followed to avoid wrinkling. I have been pleased with the end results.
September 1, 20169 yr 14 minutes ago, Bundoman said: I used Plastikote engine enamel. I read about this on one of the forums as giving good results and have used it on several planes with good success. If I recall correctly, I used three coats and there are some specific re-coat instruction on the can that must be followed to avoid wrinkling. I have been pleased with the end results. that may have been my suggestion... either at wood or router.. each coat is only a dusting... a dusting sets up so fast recoats are done in short order.. but take yur time just the same......
September 1, 20169 yr Very nice restoration Brent. It is nice to save as many of them as we can. I have used the same paint on a couple and it works great and holds up nicely. Again, nice job.
September 1, 20169 yr 1 hour ago, Bundoman said: I used Plastikote engine enamel. I read about this on one of the forums as giving good results and have used it on several planes with good success. I have been pleased with the end results. I have, also, used the Rustoleum Gloss Black (Hard Hat) paint. It is not an exact match to the color of the original Japanning, but it flows out and dries extremely hard. Sometimes, by the time I run a body through electrolysis there isn't any (or little) Japanning left. It is better to strip it off and just paint it then to try and find, or make, a Japanning to re-coat the body. There's restoration and then there is restoration. If I were restoring it too original, then I would pursue the original finishes. However, I restore to use. Once you clean up a plane refinish totes and knobs, who cares if it is painted or not? Anyway, again, good job Brent.
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