I'm having a problem with fisheyes in a top I'm finishing. I am using a wipe on poly and have  tried wiping down with paint thinner, mineral spirits and, washing the clothes I'm using to make sure there is no fabric softener. This is driving me crazy, am I missing anything? Should I try wiping down with denatured alcohol ?

 

May be something in the wood. Try sanding it back down and using a coat of clear shellac. Dries really quick and can be sanded then apply your poly.

You didn't say, but, is the can of finish new or old?

Definitely re-sand. If the piece has had finish applied before you may have to sand deeps spending on the type of finish. If you're using wipe on poly, I'd suggest applying the poly with a new piece of pantyhose. New because you don't want any body oils or soap in them. Cut a piece about 6-8 inches long and fold it twice. Makes perfect applicator. Good luck!

Charles, what type of wood is the top, and is this a refinish job or new?

Thank you everybody for you suggestions. The item I am working on is a top for a desk my son and I are making. The top has 2 beautiful 4 way book match of blackwallnut with a 2 1/4" wide x 1 1/4" thick AM cherry border. The next one we will be working on is his. Yes I am using wipe on poly and the can is new.

 Ron thanks for the idea of using the pantyhose and I think I'll put a cotton cloth inside so it can hold more finish the top is fairly large. The cotton clothes I have been using have been washed then they went threw a second wash with no soap or softeners.

 Wayne thanks for the suggestion of the shellac but It can leave blotch and problems if your not careful and with a large area and the quick drying it can be challenging.I just don't have the experience with it to try it.

 I already have sanded it down again so I'll let everyone know what happens ok and thanks again 

Keep us posted.  Can't wait to see how it turns out so post a picture when you're finished.

Working with veneers, you only have  few more shots at this Charles before you sand through!

I'm looking forward to seeing it when done as well. I have never heard of this issue before, but then my experience is limited to wood turning and finishing (no flatwork).

Nobody mentioned  applying a finish too heavily.  That  can cause fish-eyes too.

 

With a wipe on poly it's unlikely to get it on so heavy, but its a cause  that's goo to know about

 

 

When re-finishers get fish-eyes they usually credit to to things like Pledge which all have silicone in them

Some guys use a treatment for them that just contaminates their whole system with silicone. 'Coz that's what it is - - more silicone.

 

Other guys hit it with light applications of heavy  weight cut  sprayed shellac ( from a distance so it's mostly dry when it lands)  in as many coats as it takes to get on top of the fish eye and seal it underneath and  - quick like a bunny before it can migrate up - the final top coat. 

Fish eyes can also be silicone contamination.  If you ever used pledge then you are out of luck.   I know of no solvent that can break down silicone the silicone transfers to the sand paper quite well then redeposits its self in random places.   Did the sanding work?

 

On 7/11/2015 at 10:55 AM, Cliff said:

When re-finishers get fish-eyes they usually credit to to things like Pledge which all have silicone in them

Some guys use a treatment for them that just contaminates their whole system with silicone. 'Coz that's what it is - - more silicone.

 

Other guys hit it with light applications of heavy  weight cut  sprayed shellac ( from a distance so it's mostly dry when it lands)  in as many coats as it takes to get on top of the fish eye and seal it underneath and  - quick like a bunny before it can migrate up - the final top coat. 

 

 

+1 on this.    When I refinish, I can generally tell by the way the stripper sits if it's silicone contamination from Pledge or spray silicone lube.  I do not allow silicone in my shop.  I don't even use "Fish Eye Preventer" as it's just more silicone -- the hair of the dog that bit you, if you will.    .

 

I say silicone is like herpes -- once you have it, you'll never get rid of it.    Strippng, sanding, wiping down -- none of it works if the piece is contaminated enough.

 

If any doubt, I spray on a couple of coats of de-waxed shellac (e.g., SealCoat) before I put any finish on.

Stains don't seem to be bothered by it.

 

Edited August 29, 20169 yr by kmealy

Thanks for the tip I would use a 1# cut of shellac in my sprayer what do you use?

I spray Zinsser Seal Coat ( 2# cut dewaxed shellac) in a cheap $12  Harbor Freight sprayer. I have one that I have just marked for shellac.  I just go straight from the can.

4 hours ago, kmealy said:

I spray Zinsser Seal Coat ( 2# cut dewaxed shellac) in a cheap $12  Harbor Freight sprayer. I have one that I have just marked for shellac.  I just go straight from the can.

 

What size tip are you using?

Ummm, whatever comes with the gun, I'd have to unpack it and see.  The tech specs and manual does not say.   They include a generic tip size for viscosity chart, but don't say which one is standard.

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-47016.html

 

I have one for shellac, one for NC lacquer and another for w/b spray stains.    At $12-15 it hardly makes sense to even clean them sometimes. ;-)