Looks interesting. 

 It solved a problem.  Or it is supposed to solve a problem.

Unused finish

 

I pay a lot for my finishes and it chaps my kiester when  I don't use it fast enough and I let a $50.00 can of  a finish  turn to crud in the can because I opened it used some or most and the rest goes bad..

 

I've gone over to the dark side: Water Based Finishes ( I know I know - but I really like the stuff) . One of the downsides to  opening a can of water based finish is rust.

 Once you open the can the polymer lining they spray in the metal insides wears away around the rim where you open and close and  - - it's a water based finish so you get rust in your finish.  It's frustrating.

Plus the air in the can messes things up.

 

These bags are supposed to solve for that.

 

 

I dunno about the polymer they are using.  They really should say what the polymer is and  whether it's something like EVAL (EVOH {Ethylene Vinyl Alcohol}) which is engineered to prevent  transpiration of O2 and other things or if it's  just  polyethylene which lets O2  scream through.

 

It's an interesting idea.

 

Not cheap at $4.50 a quart size bag, but maybe you can reuse them.

 

 The bags are made with a little spout to facilitate dispensing.

Apparently you get the  Can of finish Use a mounted funnel rig to pour the finish into the bag - tossing the can - and then when you  use some finish you squeeze the air out of the bag and seal it up and it is supposed to keep you finish  all nice and fresh.

 

Great idea.

I may try it with some zip lock bags.

 

I've wonder if the Bloxyen stuff really works. The bags seem like a good idea but with my luck, i'd unwittingly poke a hole in it when storing it. You can imagine the mess!

Oh, eliminating oxygen with nitrogen or argon will stop  any process that requires O2 . 

 

Bloxygen is Argon

http://www.bloxygen.com/msds-sheet.html

 

I've frequently wondered if  CO2 would work as well or  if the O2 would just be liberated by the open valence shells on the molecules that   wanted to bond with it anyway.   Creating CO2 doesn't require a particularly robust energy transfer.  Mixing baking soda and Vinegar will produce  lots of it.

 

I suppose the easiest way to test it would be to put a little  finish in a container and then pour the CO2 from a soda/vinegar reaction into it and seal it up and set it aside  for a while.

I'll bet you could produce a valve/injection system using one of these-

 

 

A small threaded manifold with rubber seat, a valve and an injection tube

I'm not ready for the dark side just yet. And, your description of the rust problem, and the methods to eliminate it, pretty much seals the deal for me.

The problems with storing oil based finish after opening can be alleviated...not totally eliminated, but close... by storing the unused portion upside down. I've also had some luck decanting unused stuff into 1 Qt. mason jars. Don't forget to label them. DAMHIK.

Still, the best method is to buy in smaller quantities. At least, when it eventually jells up, you haven't lost as much.

Cliff, like you I get eally annoyed at the loss of expensive finishes. I've pretty much tried everything with very mixed results, but none I would call successful. That includes using CO2 (make your own with baking soda and vinegar), propane, sucking the air out of the can (more in a moment) and turning the can upside down. I've also cut circles out of wax paper that were the diameter of the can and laid that on top of the finish....actually, that worked as well as anything. I've meant to try filling the can with marbles until there was no air space, I have the marbles but haven't tried it yet. On the sucking the air out of the can, I cut the vacuum port off of a Ziplock vacuum freezer bag and taped it securely to the lid. I had drilled 3 very small holes under the port to allow me to remove the air, and then sucked the air out with the pump those bags take. It pulled enough vacuum to partially collapse the can. For all that work, it was somewhere near the bottom of the list in effectiveness. I've only tried this with oil based finishes, mostly varnish....and the stuff I use is getting harder and harder to find (alkyd resin/soya oil formula). Anyway, after I saw your post I ordered some of the Stop Loss bags to try out. Hadn't heard of them until I saw your post.

I got some of these a couple of years ago when they first came out.   I put some leftover Waterlox in them because it gels quickly and costs a lot.  18 months later it is still good.   One problem with just "any old plastic" is that many are permeable to solvents and air.

For my w/b finishes, I've started buying the plastic paint cans that Dutch Boy and some Sherwin Williams paints come in.  No corrosion around the top and easy pour.  They some in quart and gallon sizes.

Edited August 21, 20169 yr by kmealy