Hi all,

I basically just turn pens, bottle stoppers, game calls, and Christmas ornaments on a mini-late. My shop space is very limited because I am a full-time wheelchair user and turn upstairs in our living quarters because I can't get downstairs to set-up a shop there and we don't have a garage. I therefore have the aforementioned lathe and a Rikon " slow speed grinder to sharpen my lathe tools. I have been sawing pen blanks to length using a hard back hand saw and a plastic miter box. I have been contemplating buying a Harbor Freight Scroll Saw and using it to saw pen blanks and also to do some small scroll saw projects. Pen blanks can come in up to 1" X 1" square. Is that scroll saw capable of sawing them to length?? That would be my main purpose for buying the scroll saw. I am on a fixed and limited income so that is why I am thinking of the Harbor Freight model - especially with the 20% off coupons that are fairly easily available. I'd think about a small 9" or 10" bench band saw but even a harbor freight 9" band saw is about twice as expensive as the harbor freight scroll saw and as I said, I am on a small and fixed income.Thanks for your input.

Ernie Richardson (BAA Bugler).

Ernie

Yes you could do this on a scroll saw. I would use something like a #7 blade with that thickness. Feed it slow and keep it tight against the table. Make sure you blade is set at 90 degrees to help insure a straight cut so mounting it on a lathe is easier. Hope this helps some. Feel free to ask any other questions you may have and I will my best to answer them.

 

Wayne

I agree with Wayne. An aggressive blade and taking it slow should do the trick.

GOT TWO WORDS FOR YA ERNIE,

 

EBAY AND CRAIGSLIST!!!

 

They are all over the place.

 

OR

 

when you buy the boards have them rip it into lengths then all you gotta do is cut a piece off.

 

I have a delta scroll saw i got off craigslist for 120.00 and the guy delivered for 20.00, lol.

 

I don't like the harbor freight scroll saw blade holder, too hard to get right.

 

 my delta has quick release/quick clamp on it so changing blades and doing inside cuts is quick, easy and enjoyable instead of a headache!!

Thanks for your reply. I check Craigslist here in the Detroit area almost every day. Some people have "delusions of grandeur" with the prices they want for really OLD used tools. I saw a delta Scroll saw on Craigs list dating back probably 50 years. We had one just like it in my elementary school wood shop. (when I was in elementary school) and the guy wanted $200.00 for it used - just last Month. Crazy. I did see one listing for a 10" three wheel Dunlap band saw dating back at least fifty years too. I had one in my shop at home when I was a teenager (bought it myself from my paper route money) and I'm 71. He wanted $50.00 for it. I don't think I paid more than that for one like it brand new back in the day and Dunlap was the "Good" tool brand when Sears had Good, better, best. That's why I was interested in the Harbor Freight scroll Saw brand new but I will have to re-think that thanks to your information about the HF blade holder. I so appreciate the "heads up".

GOT TWO WORDS FOR YA ERNIE,

 

EBAY AND CRAIGSLIST!!!

 

They are all over the place.

 

OR

 

when you buy the boards have them rip it into lengths then all you gotta do is cut a piece off.

 

I have a delta scroll saw i got off craigslist for 120.00 and the guy delivered for 20.00, lol.

 

I don't like the harbor freight scroll saw blade holder, too hard to get right.

 

 my delta has quick release/quick clamp on it so changing blades and doing inside cuts is quick, easy and enjoyable instead of a headache!!

Thanks for your reply. I check Craigslist here in the Detroit area almost every day. Some people have "delusions of grandeur" with the prices they want for really OLD used tools. I saw a delta Scroll saw on Craigs list dating back probably 50 years. We had one just like it in my elementary school wood shop. (when I was in elementary school) and the guy wanted $200.00 for it used - just last Month. Crazy. I did see one listing for a 10" three wheel Dunlap band saw dating back at least fifty years too. I had one in my shop at home when I was a teenager (bought it myself from my paper route money) and I'm 71. He wanted $50.00 for it. I don't think I paid more than that for one like it brand new back in the day and Dunlap was the "Good" tool brand when Sears had Good, better, best. That's why I was interested in the Harbor Freight scroll Saw brand new but I will have to re-think that thanks to your information about the HF blade holder. I so appreciate the "heads up". Th pen blanks come from the supplier at approximately 5 to 6" long and anywhere from 5/8" square to about 1" square for pen blanks and the pen barrels need to be from about 2" long to a hair over 4" long depending on the particular pen kit. So you have to cut them to the proper length which also includes about an extra 1/8" to allow them to be squared up after cutting.

Ernie - I was also going to suggest the small band saw from Harbor Freight.  True, the blades are sometimes hard to change on their scroll saw - but - you get what you pay for.  The small band saw, provided the table is set to exactly 90 degrees and then use some sort of guide to get the horizontal 90 degrees.  Just a couple of suggestions for ya, sire.  Let us know how you do.

Ernie - I was also going to suggest the small band saw from Harbor Freight.  True, the blades are sometimes hard to change on their scroll saw - but - you get what you pay for.  The small band saw, provided the table is set to exactly 90 degrees and then use some sort of guide to get the horizontal 90 degrees.  Just a couple of suggestions for ya, sire.  Let us know how you do.

Thanks for the reply. Again on a fixed income, the HF 9" (or is it 10"=not sure) band saw is twice as much as the scroll saw which is a real consideration for me. even with a 20% discount coupon $130.00 less 20% is still $104.00 versus $70.00 less 20% is $14.00 = $56.00. $48.00 difference. A lot in my situation. I like band saws better anyway and could make up a little sled to run in the miter gauge channel so I'd get a pretty straight cut consistently so I guess I'll just wait until I get some more discretionary funds saved up and buy the band saw. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions.

Ernie

 

I have been thinking about this. I may have found a very inexpensive way out to help you. What I was thinking about is called a bench hook. You line it up on he edge of you bench or table and use a back saw to cut the piece to a length. I drew up a very basic sketch for you with  simple instructions. The bench hook is made from pieces already in you shop so no cost involved. A cheap back saw can be found almost anywhere if you don't have one. Just keep the top and bottom holders at 90 degrees to the top table. I've included a simple pdf of a diagram. A few screw and some glue is all you need to assemble this.

 

Best of Luck

 

Wayne

Bench Hook.pdf

Just to expand on what Wayne said- I found an article that has a little more detailed plan-

 

Bench-Hook.pdf

Thanks Lew. I have built several of these for my shop. They are so handy and take up little space. Having coffee this morning is when I thought about it so just opened up corel draw and did a quick drawing.

Wayne and Lew - GRRRRRRRRRREAT IDEA, sires

 

I just knew if we thought about it long enough someone would come up with a grand idea.

Nice idea guys!!!!  but one suggestion or two.

 

I used to use that until I got a side vise and dogs.  no more sliding around and skidding out.

 

And it got better when I started using japanese pull saws that not only cut faster, they cut cleaner.

 

that being said, anyone in wheel chair/handicap will find the pull saws infinitely easier on the arms without using control.

 

MAYBE LEW CAN DRAW IT UP!!

 

Just take a piece of plywood (12"x12"x3/4"), attach a 1 1/2 inch x 12"x 3/4" piece to edge closest to you.

 

 Place plywood on top of bench, clamp and drill 2 holes through put 2-1 3/4" x 3/4 inch deep holes through the plywood into tabletop.

 

Unclamp and install 2-1 3/4" x 3/4" dowels into holes in plywood, leaving the dowels flush with top and sticking out the bottom of the plywood.

 

a little fitting maybe needed so dowels go in/out of holes easily but still hold tight.

 

Japanese pull saws are WAY easier to use.  after you get used to them you'll never go back to the backsaw or forward cutting handsaw for anything!!!

.

Here's a jpg of a Sketchup model-

 

 

Here's a link to a 3D model

 

https://skfb.ly/DIKD

 

 

 

 

Lew, you are becoming a scetchup master.  Great stuff on the 3D model

Lew, you are becoming a scetchup master.  Great stuff on the 3D model

Thanks Fred. Something did't upload correctly on the #d. Some of the "wood" materials didn't show up.