....all 2" long and 1/2" wide and most 2.5" deep. 

Use a drill press to hog out most of the wood and use a chisel? Router not really a good choice for the deeper mortises. 

The heck with all that. 

After much online research and lots of inner debate, and consultations with the war dept., I pulled the trigger on the Delta stand alone hollow chisel mortise machine.

Review will come after first use.

Good Choice!

 

I have an old Bridgewood one (similar to Grizzly) and it still works great. While you're at it, buy the cone sharpening stone for the chisels.

.

The heck with all that. 

  H HA HA HA HA HA HAH AH AH AH A HA HA HAHAH AHAH AHAH HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAA

 

 

Yah - - - I'd a got mesef a moOoOOoticer too  To me makin'  dem MoOoOo-Tices

 

 

You actually order it yet?

If not consider  loose tenons.

....all 2" long and 1/2" wide and most 2.5" deep. 

Use a drill press to hog out most of the wood and use a chisel? Router not really a good choice for the deeper mortises. 

The heck with all that. 

After much online research and lots of inner debate, and consultations with the war dept., I pulled the trigger on the Delta stand alone hollow chisel mortise machine.

Review will come after first use.

Congrats Gene!

Lew, Ordered them, too. Everything I've read suggests that sharpening the new chisels before their first use will be beneficial.

 

Cliff, I'm making 4 sets of Morris chairs and ottomans. For most all of my M&T work in the past, I've used loose tenons. But, these require through tenons. Integral tenons would be less hassle. 

Congratulations. I think you will love it. Mine is a Craftsman and it does a really good job. I enjoy having the dedicated machine for it.

Thanks John. I'm sure I'll enjoy it, too.

Good call Gene. My mortising machine came complements of my son who made two Morris chairs and bought the machine. When you get it give me a call. I'll show you a quick sure fire way to set your drill depth.

Congrats Gene. I'm still doing mine by hand but 72 is a lot of M+T. Looking forward to your review.

, I've used loose tenons. But, these require through tenons. Integral tenons would be less hassle. 

 

 

I use loose tenons exclusively.  Never done one that goes through.  Thought about it, but never have.

Method:

* I put the stock on my slot mortiser and make  the pocket/slots.

* I run some stock through my TS then the planer and if I really care about edge fitting (I used to, but don't any more) I can fit them to the pockets on the router table with a roundover bit.  I really like the ability to control the  fitment  of the tenon to the pocket/slot to within a lousy couple of thousandths of an inch  so I cam make 'em as tight as I please and the planer lets me do this.

 I don't see why I'd need to go through.

 

What method   is it that locks you into through tenons?

 

Thanks, Ron. I'll do that.

 

Cliff, Nothing locks me in to through tenons. The G&G style and these plans call for exposed through tenons.

I've seen and/or read recommendations to use stub tenons and fake the exposed portion with an inlaid piece. Way more work than just building a through M&T to begin with.

And, I'm really not enamored of a "Morris Chair" sans exposed M&T joints. Just a personal bias, I guess.

Thanks, Ron. I'll do that.

 

Cliff, Nothing locks me in to through tenons. The G&G style and these plans call for exposed through tenons.

 

Oh.  I see.  Took me a minute.