Went on a walk-about ( about six blocks, total) and discovered a few "Gems"  

 

Was looking for a decent OLD door knob.    I had a hand brace that needed a new knob, as the pot metal one was shot.    Picked up a white porcelin knob for $3 +tax..   

 

Next, was on the look out for a wood bodied plane.    One place had LONG jointer planes, some even had an iron on board.....@ $20 each....YIKES!

Next store had a Try plane size, but it had seen way better days, and at $20, not even worth the effort to clean up.

 

Went across the street from those two stores to a third store.    Found an old Jack plane, no price on it.   Asked at the counter IF they would take $5???     They made a phone call, answer was

 

 

YES!   So, I walked back home, with a door knob in me coat pocket, and cradling a wood jack plane in the crook of me arm.  

 

Took the iron and chipbreaker apart.   Thick tapered 1-1/8" wide iron.   Was a might tight in the slot.  A few taps on the wood body's backside, out came the cutter parts.   Both parts were stamped with a logo. 

This is a W. Butcher iron an chipbreaker.   Chipbreaker has a HUGE bolt.   It also hasn't a hump like normal chipbreakers.   Last 1/2" it angles down.   Allows the wedge to sit better.  Got the sole half way flat. All them years of owners planing at an angle wore the sole at bit...crooked.   Handplaned to get the worse of it off.   Gave the top of the body a few passes as well.    Gave the body about 6 coats of BLO.   Sanded the wedge a bit, to get a better fit.  

 

Now, this being a Jack plane, it does have a BIG mouthMight even be a little too big?   I ground a better edge on the tapered iron, and gave it a bit of camber.   maybe 9" radius? 

 

Installed the iron and chipbreaker back into the plane, along with the wedge.   A few taps with the hammer to set things just right. and a test drive

Cleaned up nicely, too.    Sat the try plane beside it

 

Not sure IF I will add a front knob to the new guy.  Makes some decent curlie things, though

 

Oh, as for that white door knob?    Ground away what I needed to get rid of on a hand brace.  Locktite CA to attach the new knob, for now.

No, it doesn't turn, it won't need to.   Plan to use a screwdriver bit and drive screws with this one.    Brace was made in Japan, but the chuck is still in excellent shape

I think I can get a bit moe torque with this, than the two Stanley Handyman 133A  I have.    Now, IF I can find a few bits....

Nice fix on the brace!  

Hmm, how the ....did that happen?    IF the Mods wish, pick one to delete.   Not sure how to without a FUBAR  happening.   

 

Would prefer this one stays up, due to the title being corrected. 

Really enjoy "watching" your saves and seeing you use them.  

What you do with old rusty and bent tools is amazing. Altering them to fit your needs and restoring the old arn to work with is preserving a part of history. 

Keep it up and keep posting, Steven.

Nice Pick Steve.