Good Evening Friends,

Over the years I have learned how to avoid those bad looking blemishes and blotches in my work when I am working with most wood however I especially use this following prepretory step when using pine, birch, poplar and soft maple.

 

When you receive a salad from your pizza house which normally comes in a plastic bowl of a sort.

 

Save those bowls for they are great for the measuring out exact equal measurements when cutting stain, shellac and many other things where it calls for mixing certain amounts of one product into another.

 

Now for my tip or suggestion on how to beat blotches;

Fiirst take one of the bowls and measure up from the bottom on the outside of the bowl 1" and place a mark on the side of the bowl with a magic marker. Then if the cut stain is lets say 3 to 1 ratio, it means to use three parts of mineral spirits to one part of the intended stain you choose to use.

 

Mix them well but don't shake for this causes bubbles. After you have mixed the blend together till you see no flakes of the stain pigment and proceed in washing the intended project. Make sure you get a good even coverage but don't allow it to run for this creates streaks in the project, and if for some reason some does run just blot it off with the same rag you are washng with.

 

When completely washing the project and it all looks even to you, set it aside and allow to dry for at least 24 hours. Then using # 0 Imitation steel wool by 3-M company which will eliminate the feathers that occured from the washing. Then using a rag dip it into the full strength stain and apply in a circular motion blending as you go. When you dip your rag again don't start where you left off but, instead start away from where you left off, again in a circular motion working and blending back into the location where you stopped to dip your rag again.

 

Allow this stain job to set over night and then sand with #000 imitation steel wool by 3-M company and by using these fabricated steel wool products you eliminate any rust particles in your finish.

 

Then you may finish with any type of finish you choose whether you spray, brush or wipe on as I do and then enjoy a blemish free project.

 

Respectfully,

 

Ralph

Where do you get your stain pigments from Ralph?

Ralph, let me join into this conversaton, if you don't mind. I haven't been able to get into fine furniture building yet. All I've built were things like night stands, cradles, tables, etc. I don't know alot about finishing fine pieces. I was told by an old cabinet builder friend of mine that I should never use steel wool on unfinished wood because steel wool is coated with a real fine oil that is used to keep it from rusting. When the oil get on the wood surface it will keep the stain from soaking into the wood pores evenly and cause blotches. Is there any truth to this or can I use steel wool freely? While I have you here, 1 more question. How can I get rid of water stains on unfinished wood? My wife found a beautiful, massive, unfinished Spanish Cedar book case but it had some water damage on the bottom and I didn't know how to get rid of the stain. Can you give me advise?

Hello Mike amd Larry,

First I'll answer Mike's question; As a general rule when I bring stain home I also bring an empty can with a lid, so when I mix the stain up good getting all of the pigment on the bottom of the can mixted till none is sticking on the bottop of the paddle or stick that I stired with. Then I put and old T shirt over the new empty can and pour the stain into the can sifting the pigment out the haevy pigment that is left. Then by rinsing out the new can the stain came in, I then pour it back into the can so I will know which stain is in the right can. Also Mike, I use only two stains one by the Minwax company and the second on from Varethane of which I do the same as I did with the minwax stain and by doing so I find that the pigment in the Varethane stain is finer that that in the Minwax.

Now Lary, To answer your question I will have to know if the piece stood in water to the point it started to deteriorate. One could use some household bleach to see if that would hel lighten the color or try sanding to see just how deep the stain is in the wood. Normally a little water stain does't hurt if it has not started to deteriorate.

You could either pain the piece or use a dark stain to hide the water stain.

Ralph

Ralph, there was no visible deterioration of the wood. I was just concerned that it would be unsightly even after it was finished. I would have probably put a hand rubbed tong oil finish on it. I really enjoy Spanish Cedar. This was a massive book case and would have fit really well in my study/ office.

Ralph Allen Jones said:

Hello Mike amd Larry,
First I'll answer Mike's question; As a general rule when I bring stain home I also bring an empty can with a lid, so when I mix the stain up good getting all of the pigment on the bottom of the can mixted till none is sticking on the bottop of the paddle or stick that I stired with. Then I put and old T shirt over the new empty can and pour the stain into the can sifting the pigment out the haevy pigment that is left. Then by rinsing out the new can the stain came in, I then pour it back into the can so I will know which stain is in the right can. Also Mike, I use only two stains one by the Minwax company and the second on from Varethane of which I do the same as I did with the minwax stain and by doing so I find that the pigment in the Varethane stain is finer that that in the Minwax.

Now Lary, To answer your question I will have to know if the piece stood in water to the point it started to deteriorate. One could use some household bleach to see if that would hel lighten the color or try sanding to see just how deep the stain is in the wood. Normally a little water stain does't hurt if it has not started to deteriorate.

You could either pain the piece or use a dark stain to hide the water stain.

Ralph

Larry,

In most cases the side of the book case would be next to either a wall or another piece of furniture and would hardly show up unless you pointed it out.

Warter marks are kind of funny some times such as a water ring on a piece of furniture where a cold glass of ice and beverage allowed water to condense on the outside of the glass and run down onto the top of the piece of furniture. One cure for removing this water ring is nothing more than plain old masyonaise rubbed into the ring several times while wiping off each layer as you work on the ring. Soon it will completely disappear. The same might be tried on the book case if the stain is not too deep. Otherwise it might be covered by the use of a dark stain over the water stain. Then come back with the Tung oil finish. Full strength Tung oil will take days to dry while Minwax Tung oil is cut 50/50 with a good varnish and dries well under normal conditions.

Ralph

Larry said:

Ralph, there was no visible deterioration of the wood. I was just concerned that it would be unsightly even after it was finished. I would have probably put a hand rubbed tong oil finish on it. I really enjoy Spanish Cedar. This was a massive book case and would have fit really well in my study/ office.

Ralph Allen Jones said:

Ralph the water stain was near the bottom. I occured while the piece was sitting on the floor and the lower 2 inches got wet. I had considered adding a trim around the bottom to cover the stain. This mixture of tong oil and varnish, how would it be applied? Would you rub it in or apply with a fine brush?

Ralph Allen Jones said:

Larry,
In most cases the side of the book case would be next to either a wall or another piece of furniture and would hardly show up unless you pointed it out.

Warter marks are kind of funny some times such as a water ring on a piece of furniture where a cold glass of ice and beverage allowed water to condense on the outside of the glass and run down onto the top of the piece of furniture. One cure for removing this water ring is nothing more than plain old masyonaise rubbed into the ring several times while wiping off each layer as you work on the ring. Soon it will completely disappear. The same might be tried on the book case if the stain is not too deep. Otherwise it might be covered by the use of a dark stain over the water stain. Then come back with the Tung oil finish. Full strength Tung oil will take days to dry while Minwax Tung oil is cut 50/50 with a good varnish and dries well under normal conditions.

Ralph








Larry said:

Hi Larry,

I prefer to hand rub all of my finishes for there is less chance of over loading the area and causing runs, drips and errors.

I like the idea of the trim board over the stained area for it will be a quick fix if there is no deterioraton of the wood. How ever that trim should be of the same material as the rest of the book case or stain it to match.

Send me a picture if you can in an email body rather than as an attachment, especially where the water stain is located.

Ralph Ralj7@aol.com

Larry said:

Ralph the water stain was near the bottom. I occured while the piece was sitting on the floor and the lower 2 inches got wet. I had considered adding a trim around the bottom to cover the stain. This mixture of tong oil and varnish, how would it be applied? Would you rub it in or apply with a fine brush?

Ralph Allen Jones said:

Ralph, I won't be home until Nov. 26, the day after Thanksgiving. When I get home I will see if the piece is still available and if so I will send you pic.

Ralph Allen Jones said:

Hi Larry,
I prefer to hand rub all of my finishes for there is less chance of over loading the area and causing runs, drips and errors.

I like the idea of the trim board over the stained area for it will be a quick fix if there is no deterioraton of the wood. How ever that trim should be of the same material as the rest of the book case or stain it to match.

Send me a picture if you can in an email body rather than as an attachment, especially where the water stain is located.

Ralph Ralj7@aol.com








Larry said: