I think everyone is dollar conscious these days so many arecoosing red oak over white oak.  With that comes the whole issue of a more open grain that must be filled.  You guys have any tips or techniques for grain filling?

Hello Ron,

I use Timber mate from woodcraft and it is a dough type substance that accepts stain very well. Now what I do is to mix some in a bowl with water until I have a nice slur and spread it on the wood and scrape some off and back on the wood in a diagonal direction across the grain and let it dry over night then sand it back off for a nice smooth surface. I like to use 150 grit Emory cloth for my final sanding with 200 grit on the open ends of the grain. Another trick I have used is to mix some yellow glue with water and wipe it over the open end grain and let it dry so when you sand it off it will take a stain that won't be darker the the rest of the project.

Ralph

I don't fill the grain.

I wire brush the crud out of it and since I've found waterlox, haven't used anything but.

I also use Timbermate Ralph but I always figure there's an alternate way. I fill because the grain on red oak is so porous that it "burps" stain.

Ralph Allen Jones said:

Hello Ron,
I use Timber mate from woodcraft and it is a dough type substance that accepts stain very well. Now what I do is to mix some in a bowl with water until I have a nice slur and spread it on the wood and scrape some off and back on the wood in a diagonal direction across the grain and let it dry over night then sand it back off for a nice smooth surface. I like to use 150 grit Emory cloth for my final sanding with 200 grit on the open ends of the grain. Another trick I have used is to mix some yellow glue with water and wipe it over the open end grain and let it dry so when you sand it off it will take a stain that won't be darker the the rest of the project.

Ralph

Hi Ron,

I used it on a QSWO mantle I am making and you folks will see the result when I am finished.

I will be posting a picture of it.

Ralph

Ron Dudelston said:

I also use Timbermate Ralph but I always figure there's an alternate way. I fill because the grain on red oak is so porous that it "burps" stain.


Ralph Allen Jones said:

Hi Gene,

I have found that when using contrasting woods it is better to fill the pores seperately when ever possible then join the two together. What is nice about that is that any glue spill out will be easier to remove after it sets up. Never but never use a rag and water for all that does is to spread the glue around anf into the pores that were missed when filling the rest of the project.

I also have found that if you stain the wood before gluing them up it won't matter if some glue gets on the wood for it will be covered by the finish.

Ralph

When you color your filler do you use stain or a coloring agent. I've always used stain to match the project but the Rockler saleman said to buy a coloring agent. Maybe he's on commission?

Grab some of the mail order catalogs , flip to the finishing sections and read about the various dyes and colorants . They come in various forms and are for different purposes . Colorants like Mixol will color anything from glue to filler to finishes , oil or water base . General finishes dyes and stains typically can be intermixed throughout their product line for all sorts of "problem "solving .To me adding "colorants" is a valuable tool , different than staining ,and invaluable. Don't be afraid to experiment !

Hey Rob,

Great idea and one that has worked for me many times over, I also is it when I am implanting a faux wood grain on a clear door so when it has dried 24 hours I come back with a light color wash and then after it dries come back with full strength stain and the effects are outstanding. I have two doors for a client that I am going to use that process on and I just may post some pictures to show how well it works.

Ralph

rob durfos said:

Grab some of the mail order catalogs , flip to the finishing sections and read about the various dyes and colorants . They come in various forms and are for different purposes . Colorants like Mixol will color anything from glue to filler to finishes , oil or water base . General finishes dyes and stains typically can be intermixed throughout their product line for all sorts of "problem "solving .To me adding "colorants" is a valuable tool , different than staining ,and invaluable. Don't be afraid to experiment !

Gene,

It has been determined by many artist and woodworkers that a colloring agent is any thing that will enhance a project such as I mentioned a few threads ago in the use of a gel stain to make faux wood grain effects on the wood.

Ralph

Gene Howe said:

Ron,
I'm pretty dumb I guess because, I don't know what a "coloring agent" is. Maybe a guy in sales at Crayola?
At any rate, I've used Walnut flavored Watco as the oil when using pumice. Works fine. Based on those experiences, I'd guess any oil based stain would work.
I've used artists' acrylic paints to color BLO and, even epoxy. Might work in the pumice filler, too. Don't know why not.







Ron Dudelston said:

My bad Ralph. Let's try the word dye. The Rocker store had various shades of it.

Ralph Allen Jones said:

Gene,
It has been determined by many artist and woodworkers that a colloring agent is any thing that will enhance a project such as I mentioned a few threads ago in the use of a gel stain to make faux wood grain effects on the wood.

Ralph







Gene Howe said: