Is there a simple way of making a shadow box?  By shadow box, I mean a picture display frame that has the glass near the outside of the box and the rear backing about an inch away. There is a spacer between the two to display things, such as a the one below..

My first thoughts were to miter an edge in front and back, for the front glass and back cover.  Then I thought, why not cut a grove for the glass and insert before assembly. Then I had thoughts about making a simple frame with spacers.

I am looking for a simple method and am using pine because it will be painted.

Ron,

 

The only shadow box I have built was for golf clubs.

 

I build a box for the club to hand in. I cut a rabbet in the back to accept the plywood back that was covered with felt.

 

 

I then made a frame to put the glass in and hinged the frame from the top of the box so that it hung closed. I put a catch in the corners to hold the lid closed. I made the door more like a regular door with glass than a mitered frame.

 

I have the door frame a little larger than the box so that the frame was about all that you saw when it was hanging on the wall.

 

 

I guess I wasn't thinking John. My thoughts were about one that is permanently sealed. A hinged door, is a simple solution that would allow it to be used for many things and internal clean up/rearrangement of your display. I'll have to recheck and see EXACTLY what she wants.

 

Thanks
John Moody said:

Ron,

 

The only shadow box I have built was for golf clubs.

 

I build a box for the club to hand in. I cut a rabbet in the back to accept the plywood back that was covered with felt.

 

 

I then made a frame to put the glass in and hinged the frame from the top of the box so that it hung closed. I put a catch in the corners to hold the lid closed. I made the door more like a regular door with glass than a mitered frame.

 

I have the door frame a little larger than the box so that the frame was about all that you saw when it was hanging on the wall.

 

 

Ron, I've made several of these and they're a piece of cake.  Make a series of cuts to make the frame look like this on the end view.  Miter the corners, square it, glue it and pin nail it.  Put the glass in using glazing pins.  They're available at any hardware store.  This particular piece is 3/4 thick so a standard 1 x whatever should work.  I put turn tabs on the back for access.  Hope this helps.

Here's a finished product.  This is a small version.  The biggest I've made was for an autographed Pete Rose jersey. 

Shucks mam', twernt nuttin'.  Being lazy does have its advantages.

Gene Howe said:

Much simpler than my way. Ron D., you just made a convert!

If you want a working definition of lazy (er efficient), check out the floor of my shop in the top picture.  The sawdust is so thick that it looks like a sawmill.

Gene Howe said:

Efficiency, is what I call it.

Lazy is what my wife calls my thinking time. I think a lot!

that is what I call combo flooring.   Cellulose insulation and cushioning to prevent a sore back.

Ron Dudelston said:

If you want a working definition of lazy (er efficient), check out the floor of my shop in the top picture.  The sawdust is so thick that it looks like a sawmill.

Thanks guys. Ron, one picture make a simple procedure very simple. I started cutting some of the pieces today and will most likely have it assembled tomorrow. I'll send a picture. Thanks again.

Ron Dudelston said:

Ron, I've made several of these and they're a piece of cake.  Make a series of cuts to make the frame look like this on the end view.  Miter the corners, square it, glue it and pin nail it.  Put the glass in using glazing pins.  They're available at any hardware store.  This particular piece is 3/4 thick so a standard 1 x whatever should work.  I put turn tabs on the back for access.  Hope this helps.

Here's a finished product.  This is a small version.  The biggest I've made was for an autographed Pete Rose jersey.

No problem Ron.  Like most men I learn faster visually.  That's why I always slow down when I see red and blue lights behind me.  One additional comment.  I try to use UV coated glass.  It isn't that much more expensive but it is tougher and you have the UV protection.

Do you ever use Lexan or an unbreakable plastic, instead of glass? It is a lot lighter and easier to use. I use some on small picture frames, but this one will be about 24"x24"

Ron Dudelston said:

No problem Ron.  Like most men I learn faster visually.  That's why I always slow down when I see red and blue lights behind me.  One additional comment.  I try to use UV coated glass.  It isn't that much more expensive but it is tougher and you have the UV protection.

I haven't yet but have considered it.  The biggest issue I can see is that unless you have a distributer near by, you have to use the Lexan from a big box store and it is usually thin.  I was always afraid that the plastic might bow in the middle of a bigger box.  If you try it on yours let me know. 

Ron Altier said:

Do you ever use Lexan or an unbreakable plastic, instead of glass? It is a lot lighter and easier to use. I use some on small picture frames, but this one will be about 24"x24"

Ron Dudelston said:

No problem Ron.  Like most men I learn faster visually.  That's why I always slow down when I see red and blue lights behind me.  One additional comment.  I try to use UV coated glass.  It isn't that much more expensive but it is tougher and you have the UV protection.

Ron on the golf club boxes, I used lexan  I was trying to keep the weight down on these since the box was already pretty large.

 

I think the only problems is it will scratch pretty easy and it is bad to pick up static. Other than that, I think it will work fine for what you are doing.

 

Ron Altier said:

Do you ever use Lexan or an unbreakable plastic, instead of glass? It is a lot lighter and easier to use. I use some on small picture frames, but this one will be about 24"x24"

Ron Dudelston said:

John, did you get any sag in the middle?  Was it 1/8" Legan?

John Moody said:

Ron on the golf club boxes, I used lexan  I was trying to keep the weight down on these since the box was already pretty large.

 

I think the only problems is it will scratch pretty easy and it is bad to pick up static. Other than that, I think it will work fine for what you are doing.

 

Ron Altier said:

Do you ever use Lexan or an unbreakable plastic, instead of glass? It is a lot lighter and easier to use. I use some on small picture frames, but this one will be about 24"x24"

Ron Dudelston said:

No problem Ron.  Like most men I learn faster visually.  That's why I always slow down when I see red and blue lights behind me.  One additional comment.  I try to use UV coated glass.  It isn't that much more expensive but it is tougher and you have the UV protection.

Ron I used 1/4" that I picked up at a glass store. They cut it for me. I built that frame just like it was going to have a 1/4 panel, but I cut off the back and used pieces of wood to secure the lexan in.

 

I didn't notice any sag, but as it is hanging the way it does, that is not much distance for it to sag. I don't remember what I paid for it right now, but I don't think it was as bad as I was expecting.

 

 

I'd say you're sag free with 1/4".  1/8" was a bit flexy for me.

John Moody said:

Ron I used 1/4" that I picked up at a glass store. They cut it for me. I built that frame just like it was going to have a 1/4 panel, but I cut off the back and used pieces of wood to secure the lexan in.

 

I didn't notice any sag, but as it is hanging the way it does, that is not much distance for it to sag. I don't remember what I paid for it right now, but I don't think it was as bad as I was expecting.

 

 

A quick and easy way to do them is to run a piece of base trim through the tablesaw to make a groove for the glass, then

run it through the router/tablesaw  to make a rabbet in the back for the back panel.

Put 3 sides together, slide in the glass and the back panel and attach the last side.

 

You should also finish the base trim BEFORE you make the cuts.  Then all you may need is a little touch up.

Another good way, thanks.

dragon1 said:

A quick and easy way to do them is to run a piece of base trim through the tablesaw to make a groove for the glass, then

run it through the router/tablesaw  to make a rabbet in the back for the back panel.

Put 3 sides together, slide in the glass and the back panel and attach the last side.

 

You should also finish the base trim BEFORE you make the cuts.  Then all you may need is a little touch up.